SCIENCES

Preserving: Conserving, Salting, Smoking, Pickling

Phaidon. 2015. 320p. index. ISBN 9780714869520. $29.95. COOKING
COPY ISBN
This revised edition of the 1948 French classic I Know How To Make Preserves covers a wide array of preservation methods and foods (though Americans will notice the exclusion of corn). Mathiot (home economics expert; author of 30 books) wrote the original when food rationing was declining but thrifty preservation was still important. Today, when fresh provisions are transported easily worldwide, this edition intends to help readers take advantage of local farmer's markets, manage the garden's bounty, and produce homemade gifts. Mathiot's straightforward instructions and concise recipes have been updated with modern safety recommendations, but the first-edition illustrations have been retained, giving this volume a charming yet no-frills, vintage look. Never overwhelming, Mathiot is a thorough educator who stays a step ahead of readers. She explains the antiseptic properties of salt and alcohol in greater detail than books such as Leda Meredith's Preserving Everything; her extensive chapter on charcuterie even includes recipes for homemade spice mixes, marinades, panades, roux, and pastry dough for pâté.
VERDICT This comprehensive classic will help home cooks in the local food movement who are eager to preserve food. Readers who forage may want to complement it with Matthew Weingarten's Preserving Wild Foods.
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