SCIENCES

Almonds, Anchovies, and Pancetta: A Vegetarian Cookbook, Kind Of

Morrow. Sept. 2018. 192p. illus. index. ISBN 9780062747433. $25.99; ebk. ISBN 9780062747440. COOKING
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Award-winning chef Peternell (A Recipe for Cooking;{amp}nbsp;Twelve Recipes) knows how to cook for flavor while being cognizant of health, economic, and sustainability concerns. His latest book focuses on embracing three ingredients—two meats and a flavorful nut—that he uses judiciously to increase the umami (savory) level of vegetable dishes, making them more appealing and satisfying. A self-described "Mediterranean foodophile," Peternell devotes separate chapters to almonds, anchovies, and pancetta (after a brief introduction that includes permission to substitute other nuts or cured pork or fish). The text-heavy recipes for main dishes, pastas, salads, appetizers, sides, and even desserts include detailed and sometimes endearing directions (e.g., "fold your hands over your own belly and chuckle with contentment"). His personable, witty writing style and stories make readers willing to trust his knowledge. Adding to the book's charm are a poem and colorful drawings sprinkled throughout.
VERDICT This helpful, highly entertaining look at three flavorful ingredients is recommended to propel home cooks, including vegetarians, to a whole new level.
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