Miller (Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time) explores the role of African American cooks in the presidential kitchen. Starting with George Washington's presidency and ending with Barack Obama, Miller shows how the job of presidential cook evolved from steward to executive chef. Slavery, emancipation, and segregation loom large over the narrative, and Miller provides welcome content and analysis. Additionally, the author reflects on the influence that African American cooks had on the presidential diet along with the personal friendships that some cooks developed with the First Family. Prominent figures are profiled, including Zephyr Wright, Samuel Frances, Lizzie McDuffie, and William Crump, among others. Transportation is also touched on, specifically the impact of presidential train and airline travel on the role of the presidential cook. A chapter is devoted to presidents' changing relationships with alcohol and the influences of prohibition and public perception. Each chapter ends with several recipes. VERDICT An intriguing glimpse into the inner workings of the White House kitchen and the chefs who have made its wonderful cuisine possible.—Rebekah Kati, Durham, NC
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