COOKING & FOOD

Thoughtful Cooking: Recipes Rooted in the New South

Countryman. Apr. 2024. 288p. ISBN 9781682688083. $35. COOKING
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Dissen, chef and owner of the Market Place restaurant in Asheville, NC, makes his debut with a soulful cookbook that embraces the culinary philosophy of eating seasonally and sustainably, while also showcasing his belief that cooking is all about slowing down and being in the moment. Arranged by season, each chapter concludes with a thoughtful essay delving into topics such as seafood sustainability. Recipes range from Southern staple entrées (tomato pie) to libations (a spring champagne cocktail). Cooks in search of fast-to-fix dishes will find that Dissen makes no bones about his philosophy, that thoughtful cooking “isn’t designed to be convenient and quick.” For example, strawberry and arugula salad includes an onion marmalade that requires two hours cooking time, plus a confit-shallot dressing. But Dissen isn’t averse to smart shortcuts, such as using store-bought Duke’s mayonnaise in his grand aioli.
VERDICT Written with the same love and care as Bill Smith’s Seasoned in the South and Vivian Howard’s Deep Run Roots, Dissen’s irresistible tome of culinary love will be food for thought for readers seeking a grounded guide to cooking.
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