SCIENCES

The London Cookbook: Recipes from the Restaurants, Cafes, and Hole-In-The-Wall Gems of a Modern City

Ten Speed: Crown. Oct. 2016. 320p. photos. index. ISBN 9781607748137. $35; ebk. ISBN 9781607748144. COOKING
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OrangeReviewStarFood writers and journalists increasingly agree that British food has shed its bad reputation, and Americans are clamoring for cookbooks from London eateries such as Ottolenghi and the River Café. In this superbly written and photographed cookbook, award-winning food writer Crapanzano surveys significant shifts in London cuisine, noting the influence of chefs such as Fergus Henderson and Ruth Rogers. Readers need not have traveled to London to appreciate recipes such as Korean steak and shoestring fries, farro and porcini soup, scallops with corn puree and chile oil, and garam masala Christmas pudding with nutmeg custard. These and other dishes have been sourced from many popular restaurants and adapted for home kitchens.
VERDICT Crapanzano perfectly captures all that's exciting about the people, places, and foods that make up London's modern culinary scene. After reading this cookbook, home cooks may find themselves planning a London vacation.
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