HOW-TO

Six Seasons: A New Way with Vegetables

by Joshua McFadden
with Martha Holmberg. Artisan. May 2017. 384p. photos. index. ISBN 9781579656317. $35; ebk. ISBN 9781579657789. COOKING
COPY ISBN
OrangeReviewStarMcFadden is the executive chef-owner of Ava Gene's, a trattoria-inspired restaurant in Portland, OR. After a glowing foreword by Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman (The Four Season Farm Gardener's Cookbook), who employed McFadden at their farm in coastal Maine, the author begins this cookbook with pantry and pickling guides, go-to recipes (e.g., compound butters, breads, dips, dressings, fry batter), and essential techniques that can help cooks become better at preparing seasonal and local vegetables. He follows these basics with a year's worth of recipes grouped into six "microseasons." Attractive vegetable recipes, written with Holmberg (Modern Sauces), range from brightly colored raw and cooked salads to indulgent appetizers, pastas, and baked goods.
VERDICT Under McFadden's tutelage, cooks will learn how to bring out the best in every humble vegetable.
Reviewed by Lisa Campbell , Apr 15, 2017
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