COOKING & FOOD

Rose’s Ice Cream Bliss

Houghton Harcourt. May 2020. 320p. ISBN 9781328506627. $25. COOKING
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Throughout her career, IACP and James Beard award–winning Beranbaum (The Cake Bible) has published a few ice cream recipes, but here she devotes an entire book to her favorite sweet. She focuses on custard-style recipes, but makes them slightly less laborious with a streamlined method that forgoes tempering eggs. Included are recipes for toppings and add-ins, as well as for desserts that pair well with, or feature, ice cream. Beranbaum combines passionate descriptions of flavors with her signature, clear format (tables listing ingredients in both weight and volume followed by enumerated instructions), explaining succinctly the process of making ice cream and recommending equipment. For icier, lower-fat treats, in addition to custardy desserts, try David Lebovitz’s The Perfect Scoop.
VERDICT Beranbaum’s fun guide is sure to satisfy one’s craving for homemade, machine-churned, custard-style ice cream. A treat for culinary collections.

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