COOKING & FOOD

Baking with Dorie: Sweet, Salty & Simple

Houghton Harcourt. Oct. 2021. 400p. ISBN 9780358223580. $35. COOKING
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James Beard award winner Greenspan is back with her 14th cookbook, a celebration of baking in all its varied forms with recipes ranging from breads and cookies to pastries and savory bakes. Each chapter includes a brief how-to guide with tips for perfecting different types of baked goods, including gluten-free treats. Classics are here, although Greenspan is not afraid to put her own spin on tradition; for example, she presents a linzer tart made with a double crust in lieu of the familiar lattice weave, and suggests baking madeleines in a mini-muffin tin to increase the ratio of crunchy crust to cake-like crumb. This cookbook also offers a mini master class on making meringues and choux pastry, which will appeal to readers seeking a baking challenge. Greenspan’s calm, reassuring voice is evident throughout the book, and her emphasis on freedom and flexibility in baking is a refreshing approach.
VERDICT Greenspan’s latest is an essential collection for bakers with mid-level experience and skills (and, ideally, a stand mixer).
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