When his college-bound son needed cooking advice, Chez Panisse chef Peternell provided it over the phone, narrating recipes that would eventually form the core of this delightful and instructive cookbook. In 13 chapters (covering eggs, beans, and salad dressings, for example), he teaches readers a fundamental cooking repertoire that includes rustic toasts and croutons, egg frittatas with myriad fillings, economical braises, easy sauces, and unfussy desserts. With practice, these can easily be made from memory and adjusted according to taste. For each recipe (and there are many more than the title suggests), Peternell provides lengthy written instructions that—like those from veteran food writers David Tanis (
One Good Dish) and Nigel Slater (
Ripe)—are best savored slowly.
VERDICT Marked by Peternell's zeal for good, simple food, this title takes a very different approach from cooking handbooks that emphasize science or technical precision.
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