The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food

Voracious. Oct. 2020. 336p. ISBN 9780316480680. $38. COOKING
Reminding us that Black food is not monolithic and is more than soul food, awardwinning chef Samuelsson (The Red Rooster Cookbook) creates a groundbreaking resource devoted to Black foodways and the ongoing history of food as a part of racial justice. For him, authorship of our own foodways is essential; Black people have always cooked, but it’s only recently that we’ve received recognition. The chef takes care to show that Black food is American food, and sparks a conversation on what it means to be a Black cook in the United States, and abroad. With the assistance of cowriters Osayi Endolyn (food writer) and Yewande Komolafe (recipe developer and food stylist), Samuelsson profiles influential chefs in the diaspora and creates recipes celebrating their legacy. Among the highlights are Toni Tipton-Martin being honored with beets with sage leaf and dukkah spice and Tavel Bristol-Joseph with coconut fried chicken with sweet hot sauce and platanos. Rich photographs by Angie Mosier place chefs and their inspired foods in context.
VERDICT Samuelsson’s enthusiasm and appreciation shine throughout this inviting collection, a must-read for all interested in Black foodways and culinary history.
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