Reicher, the executive chef of Greens Restaurant, details over 120 global, seasonal offerings in her debut cookbook that celebrates the iconic vegetarian San Francisco eatery. She is the third woman executive chef in the restaurant’s 40-year history and takes that legacy seriously in terms of what the restaurant signifies in vegetarian cooking—focused, serious, elevated food that nourishes as it showcases a wealth of seasonal vegetables across a range of techniques. The book begins with building blocks to fill out a larder, such as vegan aioli and cashew cream, before offering spreads and sauces (green goddess hummus), snacks (savory johnny cakes with marinated tomatoes), soups and salads (celery and peanut noodle), pastries (honeynut squash gnocchi), beans and grains (creamy garlic polenta), mains (souvlaki-style tofu brochettes), and desserts (ginger-parsnip oatmeal cookies). Reicher’s particularly useful headnotes celebrate ingredients, share how the recipes were developed, comment on special techniques, and explain flavor notes. The overall tone is intimate and elegant. The recipes are elevated yet accessible, but most are beyond a quick weeknight dinner.
VERDICT Vegetarians will want this book, and it is essential for regional collections.
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