COOKING & FOOD

Gursha: Timeless Recipes for Modern Kitchens, from Ethiopia, Israel, Harlem, and Beyond

Knopf. Apr. 2025. 304p. ISBN 9780593536674. $37. COOKING
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Chef, restaurant owner, and activist Barhany invites readers on her journey from Ethiopia to Sudan, then to Israel, and ultimately to Harlem in New York City, where she developed her unique fusion cuisine. In this book written with Elisa Ung (cowriter of Mango and Peppercorns: A Memoir of Food, an Unlikely Family, and the American Dream), Barhany opens by providing a window into her Ethiopian Jewish culture, sharing her family history and personal stories from her childhood, and recounting the caravan that brought many Ethiopian Jews to Israel. In the kitchen, Barhany’s approach is simple and reassuring, emphasizing that all one needs to succeed are ginger, garlic, and onions. Her recipes, organized by course, are not only flavorful but also predominantly kosher, reflecting a variety of cuisines with a strong foundation in Tigary traditions. There are also plenty of seafood and vegetarian dishes throughout, some of which get very spicy. The most special chapter is the last, “Holidays, Celebrations, and Rituals,” which creates menus for special occasions from the preceding recipes. Barhany’s narrative captures the culture and history of the Beta Israel community, and her unique foodways offer recipes that are sure to delight a wide range of audiences.
VERDICT This is a one-of-a-kind cookbook that reflects Barhany’s life journey and introduces readers to a rich culture and its history.
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