COOKING & FOOD

Cookies: The New Classics

Clarkson Potter. Nov. 2021. 256p. ISBN 9780593235669. $27.50. COOKING
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This is a cookie recipe book that manages to stand out in a somewhat crowded field. Rather than simply retread the classics, Szewczyk (Tasty Pride: 75 Recipes and Stories from the Queer Food Community) attempts to bring something new to the table: a collection organized by flavor profile, with some modern twists. The old standbys are here—chocolaty, nutty, fruity, and spiced cookies each have their own chapters—but so are some unexpected flavors: boozy, smoky, and savory cookies all receive sections of their own. Recipes range from no-bake fudge bars to complicated filled meringues; several skillet cookie recipes straddle the line between cookie and group dessert. Helpfully, treats are labeled if they do not require an oven or an electric mixer, and directions are clear and thorough. Notes accompanying the recipes provide some insight into the reasoning behind the selection of particular ingredients and techniques, but there is little in the way of the kind of autobiographical storytelling that is prominent in recent cookbooks.
VERDICT Szewczyk’s latest cookbook will have broad appeal for those who want to move beyond the same basic cookie recipes.
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