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32 Yolks: From My Mother's Table to Working the Line

Random. May 2016. 256p. ISBN 9780812992984. $28; ebk. ISBN 9780679644460. COOKING
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Readers may know Ripert as the meditative host of the PBS series Avec Eric; a fan-favorite judge on Bravo's Top Chef; and the owner of Le Bernardin, a French seafood restaurant in New York. His roots, however, are far from that calm and thoughtful adult. This memoir tells of Ripert's tumultuous childhood in France where a love of excellent food was instilled in him early on. In his preteens, he was taken under the wing of a professional chef. Food and cooking were an escape for Ripert, though the stress of professional kitchens steeped him in almost unmanageable levels of fear and desperation. The militaristic attitude in three-star restaurants, as Ripert describes it, is physically and mentally grueling. Despite the difficulties, Ripert knew cooking was his calling and he likens talented chefs to having the creative genius of composers Wolfgang Mozart and Frédéric Chopin.
VERDICT Although the loving descriptions of flavors and cooking techniques will make some long for recipes, this narrative sheds light on the carefully controlled chaos behind the scenes at several top restaurants in the 1970s and 1980s. It will appeal to fans of Anthony Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential and Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali's Restaurant Man.
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