COOKING & FOOD

The Apple Lover’s Cookbook: Revised and Updated

Norton. Sept. 2020. 336p. ISBN 9780393540703. $30. COOKING
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In the updated edition to this cooking reference, Traverso, senior food editor at Yankee magazine, offers a primer on apple varieties and a history of the adaptable fruit, as it moved from east to west; from its origins in the Middle East to large-scale production in Washington State. Bringing her experience as a recipe developer to each chapter, Traverso begins by explaining varieties, from tart to sweet, and their best uses; for example, Granny Smith are ideal for desserts while McIntosh work well in sauces. A standout chapter, “Pies, Crisps, Cobblers, Buckles, and Betties,” shows fresh ways to incorporate apples into desserts, such as apple-pear cobbler with lemon-cornmeal biscuits. Tips on peeling, coring, and dicing are a bonus. Home cooks shouldn’t be deterred by infrequent photographs—this latest edition is complete with apple-and-cheese pairings and listings of orchards that mail products.
VERDICT It’s worth investing in this revised edition, with its pertinent information and recipes that will entice readers all year round.

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