COOKING & FOOD

My Korea: Traditional Flavors, Modern Recipes

Norton. Apr. 2020. 368p. ISBN 9780393239720. $40. COOKING
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Korean food has a reputation for being boldly flavored, filling, and delicious. Chef Kim shows that it can equally be refined and subtle. Beginning with a cogent explanation of traditional Korean ingredients, this debut pulls recipes from New York restaurants Danji and Hanjan, along with recipes Kim likes to cook. Kim is a natural educator and his instructions for even basic foods, such as rice and dashi, are thoughtful and thorough. Many of the recipes, such as bibimbap, will be familiar to Western diners; others, such as beef tartare with soy and Korean pear, may be less so, but all are intriguing. In addition, some recipes combine French and Japanese techniques and Korean flavors, e.g., beef brisket bulgogi sliders and spicy Brussels sprouts. Sections include fundamental sauces and condiments, banchan, kimchi, soups and stews, as well as noodles, rice, snacks, and cocktails.
VERDICT A rare restaurant cookbook that will work well in a home kitchen, this collection is more refined in flavors and techniques than Maangchi’s Big Book of Korean Cooking.

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