COOKING & FOOD

Mother Grains: Recipes for the Grain Revolution

Norton. Apr. 2021. 352p. ISBN 9781324003564. $40. COOKING
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Jullapat rose to acclaim as co-owner and head baker of Los Angeles restaurant Cooks County. Now the co-owner of Friends & Family, also in Los Angeles, Jullapat makes her authorial debut with an inviting collection about bread and pastry. With raw honesty, she recounts the impact of her mother’s death at a young age, and her move from Orange County, CA, to her father’s native Costa Rica as he attempted to find solace after grief. It was in Costa Rica that Jullapat began to immerse herself in the enjoyment of cooking. Her love of grains evolved after she moved back to California as an adult and began testing different flours as a baker at Cooks County. Jullapat explains how changing the type of flour in a recipe or adding a different grain can be transformative and inspire treats like her white cheddar cornmeal biscuits. The book’s strength lies in its focus on grains that are easily accessible in grocery stores and online, including barley and rice. While all chapters feature inventive recipes, the oats section is a highlight, with star recipes like power oat bars.
VERDICT Jullapat’s conversational approach and winning recipes will draw in aspiring bakers and inspire existing ones..
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