COOKING & FOOD

Modern Comfort Food: A Barefoot Contessa Cookbook

Clarkson Potter: Crown. Oct. 2020. 256p. ISBN 9780804187060. $35. COOKING
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Culinary star Garten returns with her 12th cookbook, built around the timely theme of comfort food. Garten wishes to create dishes that are satisfying on a deep emotional level, and many of the recipes here are updated versions of American childhood favorites and nostalgic home-cooking staples. Standard party fare becomes refined with Garten’s fresh crab nachos and fig and cheese toasts, while classic diner food gets an upgrade in the form of lobster BLTs and mac and cheese made with truffle butter. A few standards have been lightened up, as in spring green spaghetti carbonara, but heavy cream, butter, and melted cheese are generally present in vast quantities. As always, Garten relies on easily sourced frozen and store-bought ingredients and straightforward kitchen methods.
VERDICT Garten's cookbooks are perennial best sellers. Anyone in search of nostalgic American comfort food with a twist will enjoy her latest offering.

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