PLA 2010 Conference: Where To Eat in Portland
Public Library Association - PLA 2010 - Annual Conference - Portland
By Fodor's Editors -- Library Journal, 03/10/2010
Dining in Portland
If you’re headed to Portland for the Public Library Association’s (PLA) 2010 National Conference, you’re in for some culinary treats. These days, rising-star chefs are flocking to Portland. In this playground of sustainability and creativity, lots of the city's hottest restaurants change menus weekly—sometimes even daily—depending on what ingredients they’re having delivered to their doors that morning from local farms. A combination of fertile soils, temperate weather, nearby waters, and an urban growth boundary means that a bountiful harvest (be it lettuces or hazelnuts, mushrooms or salmon) is within any chef's reach.
And these chefs are not shy about putting new twists on old favorites. Restaurants are taking culinary risks by presenting an exciting blend of menu offerings based on sustainable ingredients. Because there's such a near-fanatical willingness for chefs to explore their creative boundaries, one's palate hardly knows what to expect from restaurant to restaurant, season to season.
The other benefit of this culinary craze is that menus extend across nations and continents. First-time visitors to Portland always seem to be impressed by the diversity of its restaurants. Lovers of ethnic foods have their pick of Chinese, French, Indian, Peruvian, Italian, Japanese, Polish, Middle Eastern, Tex-Mex, Thai, and Vietnamese specialties. Of course, Northwest cuisine is prevalent, taking advantage of the availability of fresh salmon, halibut, crab, oysters, and mussels from the rivers and the Pacific Ocean.
Hours, Prices, and Dress
Compared to other major cities, Portland restaurants aren’t open quite as late, and it’s unusual to see many diners after 11 p.m., even on weekends, though there are a handful of restaurants and popular bars that do serve late if you happen to be out on the town.
Portland's dining scene that many locals and out-of-towners find appealing is how reasonably priced top-notch restaurants are. Particularly welcome in Portland is happy hour, when both inventive cocktails as well as small plates of food can be a good value; you can easily put together a fine early dinner by grazing from the happy hour menu at a restaurant that also has a bar scene.
In Portland, many diners dress casually for even higher-end establishments—a proclivity that's refreshing to some and annoying to others. In any case, jeans are acceptable almost everywhere.
Around the Convention Center
Biwa. Taking ramen to whole new heights is what this bustling, industrial restaurant with an open kitchen does best. Homemade noodles are the focal point of aromatic, flavorful soups enriched by accompaniments such as sliced pork and grilled chicken. Also try the thicker udon noodles served in a soup made from dried fish and seaweed. A fitting sendoff for the filling, authentic meals here would be one of the many sakes. 215 SE 9th Ave., 503-239-8830, www.biwarestaurant.com, Closed Sun. No lunch, $10, Japanese.
clarklewis. This cutting-edge restaurant, aka "darklewis" for its murky lighting, is making big waves for inventive farm-fresh meals served inside a former warehouse loading dock. Regional vegetables, seafood, and meat from local suppliers appear on a daily changing menu of pastas, entrées, and sides. Diners can order small, large, and family-style sizes, or let the chef decide with the fixed-price meal. Although the food is great, the lack of signage or a reception area can make your first visit feel a little like arriving to a party uninvited. 1001 SE Water Ave., 503-235-2294, www.clarklewispdx.com, Closed Sun. No lunch weekends, $22, Continental.
Colosso. The best way to get the full experience of this dimly lit tapas bar and restaurant is to order a pitcher of sangria and split a few of the small plates between friends. In the evening the restaurant is usually crowded with folks drinking cocktails late into the night. 1932 NE Broadway, 503-288-3333, No lunch, $10, Spanish.
Doug Fir. In what resembles a futuristic lumberjack hangout, the surroundings make use of brick and glass, and the walls and ceilings are made from wood logs. Add a menu of hearty, homey dishes, and you've got a fun, eclectic restaurant. The morning shift can go for the banana-hazelnut pancakes or egg scrambles, and lunch crowds will appreciate big hearty sandwiches that include a signature hamburger. For dinner, grandma’s meatloaf with gravy or Diego’s marionberry chicken are both good. 830 E. Burnside St., 503-231-9663, www.dougfirlounge.com, $9, American.
Lemongrass. Set in an old house, this lovely, intimate establishment consistently serves tantalizing pad Thai and a garlic basil chicken with sauce so delicious you wish you had a straw. Fresh flowers adorn the white linen tables. Dishes are cooked to order and just about everything is delectable, including the chicken chili paste and peanut curry. 1705 NE Couch St., 503-231-5780, No credit cards, $11, Thai.
Le Pigeon. With exposed brick, bar seating, and an open kitchen, the atmosphere at this 42-seat restaurant is trendy, yet casual. And yes, pigeon, aka squab—cooked in red wine and served with liver crostini—is an entrée. Hardcore meat lovers might also appreciate the veal tongue appetizer. Aside from a changing menu, there are a few pasta and salad dishes as well. The wine menu is extensive, and they are open late. 738 E. Burnside St., 503-546-8796, www.lepigeon.com, No lunch, $26, French.
Nicholas Restaurant. In a small streetfront along an unimpressive stretch of Grand Avenue, this hidden gem serves some of the best Lebanese food in Portland, for prices that can't be beat. Everything from the fresh homemade pita to the hummus, falafel, baba ghanoush, and kebabs is delicious and comes in enormous portions. No alcohol is served here. 318 SE Grand Ave., 503-235-5123, www.nicholasrestaurant.com, No credit cards, $7, Middle Eastern.
Pambiche. Locals know that you can drive by Pambiche any night of the week and find it packed. With traditional Cuban fare (plantains, roast pork, mojitos, and Cuban espresso), it is no surprise why. If you have some time to wait for a table, you should stop by and make an evening of it at this hopping neighborhood hot spot. Don't miss out on the incredible desserts here; it is the sole reason why some people make the trip. Try the La Selva Negra, a coconut chocolate cake filled with mango and other tropical fruit. 2811 NE Glisan St., 503-233-0511, www.pambiche.com, $11, Caribbean.
Rheinlander. A strolling accordionist and singing servers entertain as patrons dine on authentic traditional German food, including sauerbraten, hasenpfeffer, schnitzel, sausage, and rotisserie chicken. Gustav's, the adjoining pub and grill, serves slightly less expensive entrées, including sausages, cabbage rolls, and German meatballs, in an equally festive and slightly more raucous environment. 5035 NE Sandy Blvd., 503-288-5503, www.rheinlander.com, $17, German.
Widmer Gasthaus. This Old World–style brewpub, part of the Widmer Brothers Brewery, is steps away from the MAX light rail station on North Interstate Avenue. Ale-dunked sausages, schnitzel, and sauerbraten go well with the signature hefeweizen and other German-style beers that come from the handsome hardwood-and-brass bar. Chicken potpie, steak, pasta, and burgers are also served, in addition to the Widmer brothers' beloved beer cheese soup. 955 N. Russell St., 503-281-3333, www.widmer.com, $16, German.
Downtown
One thing visitors appreciate about lunch downtown is the plethora of food carts lining the streets. Smells of Greek, Russian, Japanese, Lebanese, and Mexican food permeate the air as the noon hour approaches. Lines of workers hover around the makeshift kitchen trailers, waiting to get their fill of the inexpensive and authentic selection of food. For more info, check out one of the blogs about them (www.foodcartsportland.com), and for daily specials, check out the Twitter thread at @pdxfoodcarts.
Andina. Portland's sleekest, trendiest, and most brightly colored restaurant gives an artful presentation to designer and traditional Peruvian cuisine. Asian and Spanish flavors are the main influences here, and they're evident in an extensive seafood menu that includes five kinds of ceviche, grilled octopus, and pan-seared scallops with black quinoa. There are also entrées with poultry, beef, and lamb. A late-night bar is rife with sangria, small plates, and cocktails; downstairs, a shrinelike wine shop hosts private multicourse meals. 1314 NW Glisan St., 503-228-9535, www.andinarestaurant.com, $25, Peruvian.
Bo Restobar. Combining the trend of tapas and chic cocktails, this hotel bar brings both to delicious heights. The stylish dark walls accented by colorful modern art create a sleek setting in which to sip a specialty martini made with some esoteric liquor. For nibbling, try the lemongrass clam chowder, the twice-cooked beef strips, or the "Koreadilla"—a quesadilla with spicy pork and goat cheese. Hotel Lucia, 400 SW Broadway, 503-222-2688, www.borestobar.com, $13, Asian.
Departure. If you want to sink into a swanky restaurant that could just as easily be in a much bigger city, then Departure is for you. The interior is over-the-top lush, and a scenic highlight for locals and visitors alike is the outdoor rooftop lounge, with gorgeous views of the city. The food is artfully prepared; most dishes, such as the Hamachi sashimi and calamari tempura come in smallish but flavorful portions. The fried ginger ice cream, for instance, is served with panko bread crumbs, sesame seeds, and powdered sugar. 525 SW Morrison St., 503-802-5370, www.departureportland.com, Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch, $15, Japanese.
50 Plates. You wish you had more room to try everything here, where food seems designed to put mom's tried-and-true favorites to the test. Evoking regional cuisine from all 50 states, the restaurant creates fresh culinary interpretations. The delightful "silver dollar sammies" include sweet and spicy Carolina pulled pork on a sweet potato roll and a smoked portobello rendition with butter lettuce, fried green tomatoes, and herbed goat cheese. There's also a crowd-pleasing succotash whose components vary depending upon the availability of locally harvested ingredients. The rich desserts include dark chocolate fudge cake, served with homemade brown-sugar ice cream, and bananas Foster. 333 NW 13th Ave., 503-228-5050, www.50plates.com, $17, American.
Gracie's. Stepping into this dining room is like stepping into a prestigious 1940s supper club. Dazzling chandeliers, beautifully rich floor-to-ceiling draperies, velvet couches, and marble-topped tables exude class. Dishes like grilled swordfish and stuffed pork loin are perfectly seasoned and served with seasonal vegetables. On weekends, there's a brunch menu that includes fresh fruit, waffles, and omelets. Hotel DeLuxe, 729 SW 15th Ave., 503-222-2171, www.graciesdining.com, $24, American.
The Heathman. Chef Philippe Boulot revels in fresh ingredients of the Pacific Northwest. His menu changes with the season and includes entrées made with grilled and braised fish, fowl, veal, lamb, and beef. Among the chef's Northwest specialties are a delightful Dungeness crab, mango, and avocado salad and a paella made with mussels, clams, shrimp, scallops, and chorizo. Equally creative choices are available for breakfast and lunch. Heathman Hotel, 1001 SW Broadway, 503-790-7752, $22, Continental.
Saucebox. Creative pan-Asian cuisine and many creative cocktails draw the crowds to this popular restaurant and nightspot near the big downtown hotels. Inside the long and narrow space with closely spaced tables draped with white cloths, Alexis Rockman's impressive and colorful 24-foot painting Evolution spans the wall over your head, and mirrored walls meet your gaze at eye level. The menu includes Korean baby-back ribs, Vietnamese pork tenderloin, and Indonesian roasted Javanese salmon. An excellent late-night menu is served after 10 pm. 214 SW Broadway, 503-241-3393, www.saucebox.com, No lunch, $14, Asian.
For more Portland restaurant recommendations, check out Fodor’s In Focus Portland or visit www.fodors.com
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