Collection Development "Clothing and Design": Fashion by Design
By Linda Frederiksen -- Library Journal, 06/01/2006
In the world of clothing, located somewhere between functional garments and extravagant costume lies the land of fashion. Part creative art, part construction technique, fashion involves a complex set of concepts that blend history, psychology, anthropology, sociology, and pop culture with decorative arts, mass-market consumption, and spectacle. Fashion allows us to wear our politics and philosophy on our sleeves, for all to see. In significant ways, it is a language by which what we wear speaks volumes about our society and culture, as well as our individuality.
It is also a multi-billion-dollar business, in which the forces of advertising, branding, and retailing drive a global market of constant change. A recent Datamonitor report on the worldwide apparel and textiles industry estimated that by 2009 nearly $3 billion will be spent on clothing, footwear, and accessories, with the fastest growing markets in men's, children's, and athletic wear. The length of a hemline, the shape of a silhouette, the size of a lapel, or the season's newest color or pattern-at no other time in recent history has the act of being in or out of style had such an effect on an image-conscious marketplace.
Difficult to define but instantly recognizable, fashion applies not only to clothing but to many other forms of expression, including furniture and music. For this article, the term is more narrowly used to look at the prevailing mode of dress at any given time. Costume, although referring more specifically to particular types of attire, is also covered, since fashion and costume frequently draw inspiration from each other. Related to the discussion but not examined here are the more technical aspects of the apparel industry-textile design and manufacture, garment construction, and sewing techniques.
Designing a collection
Fashion and clothing collections, whether for public or academic libraries, should reflect fashion in all its diversity and richness. Once largely relegated to picture books of historical costumes and haute couture designs, the topic has in recent years been the focus of a number of rigorously researched and sumptuously illustrated histories and critical studies.
Publishers like Phaidon, Scribner, and Thomson Gale offer catalogs of general titles of interest to public libraries. For academic libraries with fashion studies programs requiring more theoretical resources, British publisher Berg has an extensive line of fashion theory titles, and Fairchild Press specializes in textbooks and vocational editions.
Since fashion is above all a visual art, periodicals and nonprint resources like ebooks, videos and DVDs, and web sites offer alternative access to the subject while keeping libraries au courant with the ever-changing nature of the industry.
Spring cleaning
Cleaning out the library's collection, like cleaning out a closet, removes items no longer in style. While the history of fashion will always be of interest, titles more than three to five years old that tout the latest style serve more as examples of what not to wear than anything else. Another problem with collections that haven't been weeded since shoulder pads ruled the runway is that many older books reflect a decidedly Western (and male) bias that views fashion as a feminine and therefore frivolous or trivial concern. Recent feminist thought that examines fashion as a cultural phenomenon, along with marketplace interest in all aspects of clothing design, has broadened the field far beyond traditional approaches.
Today's collections should certainly reflect those changes. Owing to space limitations, the following bibliography offers public and college libraries an introductory overview with core reference titles, histories and criticism (see: "Fashionology"), and works that cover high and low fashion trends and the industry. Also included are tips from stylists ("Do It Yourself"), costume books, and nonprint resources. Excluded are biographies of designers. Starred [
] items are essential for all libraries.
Reference
Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. 3 vols. Scribner Reference: Gale Group. 2004. 1600p. ed. by Valerie Steele. photogs. bibliog. index. ISBN 0-684-31394-4. $395.
The 640 A-Z entries that make up this authoritative and award-winning set examine the development of fashion through the ages and its social and cultural impact. Written by fashion experts/specialists and accompanied by 600 black-and-white photos, the listings cover everything from bustle and body piercing to polyester and toga. [Also available as an ebook: ISBN 0-684-31451-7.] (LJ 2/15/05)
Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Footwear, Hairstyes, and Body Decorations Through the Ages. 5 vols. UXL: Gale Group. 2003. 1040p. ed. by Sara Pendergast & others. illus. index. ISBN 0-7876-5417-5. $272.
This well-designed and attractive set offers a comprehensive survey of clothing and accessories from ancient times to today. The 500 entries are clearly written and supplemented with full-color illustrations. The ebook (ISBN 0-7876-9300-6) provides additional search, print, email, and download features of both content and images. An outstanding resource for school and public libraries.
Sample: 100 Fashion Designers-010 Curators. Phaidon. 2005. 420p. photogs. index. ISBN 0-7148-4440-3. $85.
A veritable fashion show between the covers. Ten industry leaders selected 100 forward-thinking designers and wrote brief essays to accompany a visual display of their works. Unusual not only in concept but also in binding/layout, this book will appeal to most everyone interested in contemporary fashion.
Fashionology
Barthes, Roland. The Language of Fashion. Berg. 2006. 183p. bibliog. ISBN 1-84520-380-1. pap. $17.95.
French postmodernist icon Barthes wrote extensively about fashion in the 1960s. This densely written anthology of his early writings (translated into English for the first time) considers the sociological aspect of dress and serves as both a primer to Barthes and an introduction to fashion studies. For academic collections.
Breward, Christopher. Fashion. Oxford Univ. (History of Art). 2003. 272p. photogs. bibliog. index. ISBN 0-19-284030-4. pap. $19.95.
Breward, who authored the first textbook on fashion, The Culture of Fashion (1995), discusses the rise of the designer, the role of the model, film, and popular culture and how fashion is promoted, disseminated, and sold. (LJ 9/1/03)
Cosgrave, Bronwyn. The Complete History of Costume and Fashion from Ancient Egypt to the Present Day. Checkmark: Facts On File. 2001. 256p. illus. bibliog. index. ISBN 0-8160-4574-7. $37.95.
Worn to show individualism or group identity, fashion is both a spectator sport and a display of self-expression. In this well-written and illustrated volume, Cosgrave, an editor at British Vogue, summarizes these concepts while tracking the changes in clothing styles for men and women over a 5000-year period. An excellent overview for school and public libraries.
Cumming, Valerie. Understanding Fashion History. Costume & Fashion Pr. 2004. 144p. illus. ISBN 0-89676-253-X. pap. $29.95.
Dress historian Cumming examines the ways the study of fashion has evolved during the past 50 years both for the curators of museums with clothing collections and scholars studying fashion as a concept. A good introduction to the interdisciplinary study of dress.
Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century. 2 vols. Taschen. 2005. 720p. photogs. ISBN 3-8228-4099-8. $24.95.
Established in 1978, Japan's Kyoto Costume Institute is a unique museum of documents and clothing reflecting Western fashion since the early 1700s. This chronologically organized set presents hundreds of exquisitely photographed images from the collection. Each volume features a short essay on how the clothing illustrates the social history of the times, but the star is the clothing itself.
Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations and Analysis. Routledge. 2001. 416p. ed. by Stella Bruzzi & Pamela Church Gibson. illus. index. ISBN 0-415-20685-5. $125.
The scholarly essays here, contributed by English and American specialists in fashion theory and popular culture, explore an interesting mix of topics ranging from the significance of dandyism in cinema to the flashy trash of Gianni Versace.
Haute Couture & Street Fashion
Aoki, Shoichi. Fresh Fruits. 2005. 272p ISBN 0-7148-4510-8.
Aoki, Shoichi. Fruits. 2001. 204p. ISBN 0-7148-4083-1. ea. vol: Phaidon. photogs. $29.95.
A well-known Japanese photographer and magazine editor captures the individualism and innovation of Tokyo teenagers who combine high fashion with everyday and fantasy clothing. Each portrait comprises a short description of the look and the creator. Sure to delight readers of all ages, these colorful collections of street fashion are enthusiastically recommended for all libraries.
Breward, Christopher & others. The London Look: Fashion from Street to Catwalk. Yale Univ. 2004. 208p. illus. index. ISBN 0-300-10399-9. $45.
Although readers may associate English fashion with mods or, later, punks, London has made a lasting contribution to fashion for over 200 years. This academic book takes an informative backward look at some of the more innovative and distinctive London fashions and places them in their social contexts.
Icons of Fashion: The 20th Century. Prestel. 2005. 192p. ed. by Gerda Buxbaum. photogs. ISBN 3-7913-3312-7. pap. $19.95.
Chanel and Dior are fashion icons, as are Donna Karan, miniskirts, and costume jewelry. Although focusing primarily on European and American designers and Western fashion, this book is a well-designed summary of fashion styles that have had a global impact. First published in 1999, the book has been updated to include sections on retromodernism, John Galliano, and high-tech chic.
McDowell, Colin. Fashion Today. Phaidon. 2003. 512p. photogs. index. ISBN 0-7148-4334-2. pap. $39.95.
In this provocative and lavishly illustrated survey, British fashion scholar McDowell traces the social history of modern fashion from Dior's 1947 New Look to today's Diesel jeans and Nike sneakers. Over 600 color and black-and-white photos accompany the comprehensive text.
Do-It-Yourself Style
Farr, Kendall. The Pocket Stylist: Behind-the-Scenes Expertise from a Fashion Pro on Creating Your Own Unique Look. Gotham: Penguin (USA). 2004. 197p. illus. ISBN 1-59240-041-8. $20.
Can't afford a personal stylist? Here's an easy-to-read, helpful guide on what fashions to buy and wear based on female body type, with numerous tips on how to put together the right look and avoid pitfalls. Included are hints on shopping, tailoring, clothing maintenance, undergarment selection, and accessories.
In Style Eds. Secrets of Style: The Complete Guide to Dressing Your Best Every Day. Time. 2003. 192p. illus. bibliog. ISBN 1-932273-04-2. $27.95.
Featuring celebrity photos and over 120 drawings, along with tips on clothing selection and care, this browsable title advises women who want to emulate well-dressed celebrities on how to develop a personal style based on body type and today's clothing trends. (LJ 10/15/03)
Fashion Industry
Colussy, M. Kathleen. The Fashion Sleuth: How To Research the Internet for Fashion. Prentice-Hall. 2005. 160p. illus. ISBN 0-13-172762-1. pap. $26.67 w/CD-ROM.
Colussy (Art Inst. of Fort Lauderdale, FL) here applies online search techniques and information literacy principles to finding information about the fashion industry. She discusses how to construct a search, evaluate a source, and use the deep web. The accompanying CD includes over 1600 URLs to related resources. A good purchase for college libraries supporting a fashion curriculum.
Jones, Sue Jenkyn. Fashion Design. 2d ed. Watson-Guptill. 2005. 240p. illus. index. ISBN 0-8230-1644-7. $29.95.
Although aimed at new students, this textbook will also be informative to anyone interested in fashion design. Following a brief overview of its historical context, fashion design consultant Jones introduces more technical aspects of fashion design, including computer-aided design, pattern-making, and company branding.
Costume
Banerjee, Mukulika & Daniel Miller. The Sari. Berg. 2004. 279p. photogs. bibliog. index. ISBN 1-85973-732-3. $45.
Written by two anthropologists, this beautiful book celebrates the history and symbolism of the traditional Indian sari. Only six yards of fabric make up this item of clothing, but it is worn in a variety of ways by all classes and ages of Indian women. (LJ 11/1/03)
VIDEO
A Stitch in Time: A Unique Look at 20th Century Fashion. 4 vols. in 2. 330 min. MPI Home Video. 2000. VHS Vol. 1: ISBN 0-7886-0224-1; Vol. 2: ISBN 0-7886-0350-7. ea. vol: $29.98.
A lighthearted, entertaining trip through recent fashion fads, trends, and styles, this video features archival film footage from the WPA Film Library. Each of the 26 short episodes traces the history and provides humorous examples of some of the mainstays of Western apparel and accessories, including the bikini, pajamas, and raincoats. Recommended for all libraries.
Magazines
In addition to such well-known and popular fashion mags as Vogue and Elle, public and academic libraries may want to consider some periodicals that stray from the mainstream.
Anokhi Magazine. q. $18.75. Anokhi Media Corp. subs: 905-501-9907. subscriptions@anokhivibe.com; www.anokhivibe.com. ISSN 1710-4793.
A glossy fashion and lifestyle magazine that features fashion photos, interviews, and longer articles of interest to American and Canadian women readers of South Asian descent.
Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body, and Culture. q. $72 (individual); $250 (institutional). www.bergpublishers.com. Turpin Dist. Svcs. Ltd., Stratton Business Park, Pegasus Dr., Biggleswade, Bedfordshire SG18 8QB UK; tel: 44 1767 604951. ISSN 1362-704X.
Launched in 1997, this peer-reviewed, journal is ideal for academic libraries with fashion studies or popular culture programs. Libraries can also order back issues of the first seven volumes in a special set.
Nylon. 10/yr. $39.84. Nylon Holding Inc., 800-580-8050; custsvc_nylon@fulcoinc.com; www.nylonmag.com. ISSN 1524-1750.
In addition to sections for fashionistas and beauty queens, this well-designed and hip magazine incorporates street fashion with lifestyle and popular culture. Nylon for Guys is also available.
Web Sites
Fashion-Era
www.fashion-era.com
A well-maintained site that focuses on fashion history, costume, clothing, textiles, and social history. Searchable and browsable by category, such as royal fashion, dress reform, and related resources.
Fashion U.K.
www.fuk.co.uk
Focusing both on street and runway fashion, this British online magazine also includes a blog, podcasts, reports, and photos for the alternative and young fashionista. Fun to read, with plenty of links and up-to-date information.
International Directory of Design
www.penrose-press.com/IDD
A web-based directory with a wealth of information on everything related to clothing design. It is the site to visit for information on associations, e-zines, events, and schools with design programs. Searchable by category or geographic region.
| Author Information |
| Linda Frederiksen is Access Services Librarian, Washington State University Library, Vancouver |
