Collection Development "Cookbooks": Cooking Up the Basics

By Julie James -- Library Journal, 6/1/2005

Put up a display of cookbooks in your library and watch them fly out the door! Despite the millions of recipes available on the Internet and an almost continuous stream of cooking shows on the Food Network, patrons still want cookbooks. While a few read these books purely for pleasure, savoring gorgeous photography and unusual recipes, many others seek expert guidance in learning how to cook or improve their culinary skills.

With over 1000 cookbooks published in the United States every year, how can libraries spend their money wisely and help would-be cooks find the instruction they need? Instead of blowing the budget on the latest fads or cooking stars who can be gone tomorrow, start with the basics: those classic, dependable, general purpose cookbooks that teach the core techniques that are the foundation of good cooking.

When it comes to patrons deciding which titles to check out, cookbooks are largely a matter of personal preference, depending on the individual's experience and learning style. Beginners want and need clearly written, easy-to-follow, step-by-step directions and possible unfamiliar terms defined, along with a photograph of the finished product. They can be frustrated by older cookbooks, which tend to be less well indexed and often lack photographs or include only rudimentary illustrations. More advanced cooks may want to experiment with sophisticated resources that offer a base recipe and several variations resulting in many options for one dish.

Name recognition means a lot—luminaries James Beard and Craig Claiborne are practically ignored by younger cooks today, probably because neither had his own television show. Julia Child was brilliant in this aspect—she was the first well-known, celebrated TV chef—and by staying in front of the camera for 40 years, she ensured that her books remained popular today. However, this does not mean collection development librarians should pass over the masters. Older and serious cooks still appreciate classic standbys like James Beard's American Cookery (1972) despite its assumption of some culinary knowledge and its dated focus on beef and higher-fat dishes.

Today's cookbooks tend to be more health-conscious than in years past, and the current emphasis is on easy and relatively quick ways to prepare everyday food. Many of the old standards like Joy of Cooking and the 100-year-old Fannie Farmer Cookbook have been updated and revised to reflect these trends. Another old favorite for new cooks, the Betty Crocker line has modernized and diversified, with full-color photography and new specialty titles for quick and easy cooking, low-fat, bread machines, slow cookers, and more.

Patrons also like cooking magazines and DVDS. Gourmetand Bon Appétit remain in demand and are the most purchased by libraries, but Cooking Light has the highest circulation. Cook's Illustratedis more old-fashioned, mostly in black and white and with line drawings, but a great resource for learners. Vegetarian Times, Food & Wine, and Taunton's Fine Cookingare popular as well.

Several of the hottest Food Network TV shows starring Alton Brown, Paula Deen, Bobby Flay, Sara Moulton, and Rachael Ray are now available on DVD at http://store.foodnetwork.com. And Julia Child's classic The French Chef series has recently been reissued on DVD by WGBH-Boston (http://shop.wgbh.org).

Most home cooks prefer ringbound editions that lie flat, but the pages pull out more easily so these editions don't hold up to heavy circulation. Spiral and comb-bound cookbooks are easily damaged as well, although some publishers offer special library editions in which the spiral binding is protected by a hard cover. The lack of a readable title on the spine can also make these books shelf-sitters. If you have these books rebound, try to get colorful covers bound in Mylar to increase their appeal. Cookbooks are frequently judged by their covers.

Kept in reasonably good condition, many cookbooks will circulate 50–100 times and more. Even when cooking trends change, try to retain older editions of the classics like Joy of Cooking as they are still used by many cooks. Replace tattered copies as needed to keep your collection appealing.

The following is a back-to-basics inventory of essential cookery titles that can be used to upgrade a neglected collection, or that can serve as the basis for an opening-day collection. For advice on more specialized cookery resources, see Lori Widzinski's "Recipe for a Healthy Cookbook Collection (LJ 5/1/95, p. 51–54); Jeffery Ingram's "Nature's Bounty: A Vegetarian Cookbook Primer (LJ 7/96, p. 79–82); and Shelley Mosley and John Charles's "The Joy of Southeast Asian Cookbooks" (LJ 7/98, p. 53–56). Starred [*] titles are core purchases for most collections.

*CHILD, JULIA. The Way To Cook. Knopf. 1989. 512p. photogs. index. ISBN 0-394-53264-3. $65; pap. 1993. ISBN 0-679-74765-6. $39.95. Well worth the hefty price tag, this culmination of Child's remarkable teaching and cooking career features clearly written, easy-to-follow instructions and abundant photographs. Recipes start with a master formula followed by variations. An accessible alternative for novices and average cooks who might be intimidated by Child's groundbreaking Mastering the Art of French Cooking. (LJ8/89)

*CLAIBORNE, CRAIG. The New York Times Cook Book. rev. ed. HarperCollins. 1990. 799p. index. ISBN 0-06-016010-1. $34. First published in 1961, this is one of the best-selling cookbooks of all time, and its devotees are legion. Like Child, Claiborne was a great culinary educator, encouraging his readers to broaden their culinary horizons and experiment in the kitchen.

HAZAN, MARCELLA. Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking. Knopf. 1992. 690p. illus. index. ISBN 0-394-58404-X. $30. Standards in the field, Hazan's The Classic Italian Cookbook (1976) and More Italian Cooking (1978) have been combined, revised, and expanded (with 35 additional recipes) into one complete guide to Italian cooking. Quite accessible to novices, but advanced cooks will find value here as well. (LJ 9/1/92)

MORASH, MARION. The Victory Garden Cookbook. Knopf. 1982. 374p. photogs. index. ISBN 0-394-70780-X. pap. $29.95. This standard resource to cooking vegetables, which developed out of a PBS gardening show, is wonderfully old-fashioned. Thirty-eight chapters detail different commonly grown (and purchased) vegetables, with harvesting/selecting information, storage tips, and lots of straightforward recipes.

*ROMBAUER, IRMA S. OTHERS. The All New All Purpose Joy of Cooking. rev. ed. Scribner. 1997. 1136p. illus. index. ISBN 0-684-81870-1. $35. First self-published in 1931, this classic best seller has undergone significant changes over the years, and the controversial sixth edition is an essential title. New chapters reflect changing American lifestyles, but keep older editions (there are significant differences!), which reflect Rombauer's original homespun voice and recipes. (LJ10/15/97)

Better Homes and Gardens™ New Cook Book.12th ed. Better Homes & Gardens: Meredith. 2003. 642p. photogs. index. ringbound ed. ISBN 0-696-21881-X. $29.95. A strong seller since the 1930 first edition, this is an affordable, basic cookbook with relatively simple dishes well explained for the novice. Cooks prefer the ringbound edition for ease of use even if it is not the best choice for libraries.

BETTY CROCKER EDS. Betty Crocker's Cooking Basics: Learning To Cook with Confidence. Betty Crocker: Wiley. 1998. 288p. illus. index. ISBN 0-02-862451-3. $19.95. Each of the 100 unintimidating recipes (Quick Lasagna, Chicken Teriyaki Stirfry) has a two-page spread, complete with a photo of the finished product and how-to photos of techniques used in the recipe. An excellent choice for rank novices.

*BITTMAN, MARK. How To Cook Everything: Simple Recipes for Great Food. Wiley. 1998. 944p. illus. index. ISBN 0-02-861010-5. $35. A huge (over 1500 recipes!) and indispensable cooking guide from "The Minimalist" columnist for the New York Times. Each food type gets a section of basic recipes and variations. The extensively indexed volume also includes culinary advice (e.g., how to shop for fish), tips on equipment, and mail order sources.

PÉPIN, JACQUES (TEXT) LON PERER (PHOTOGS.). Jacques Pépin's Complete Techniques. Black Dog & Leventhal. 2001. 865p. photogs. index. ISBN 1-57912-220-5. $35; pap. ISBN 1-57912-165-9. $19.95. Pépin has combined and updated his two cooking-school staples, La Technique and La Methode, into one volume perfect for budding chefs. Not a cookbook as much as a cooking class for ambitious beginners; the numerous photographs make it highly instructional and well worth the price.

PETERSON, JAMES. Essentials of Cooking: The Comprehensive Illustrated Guide to Cooking Techniques. Artisan. 1999. 312p. illus. index. ISBN 1-57965-120-8. $40; pap. 2003. ISBN 1-57965-236-0. $24.95. Like Pépin's, Peterson's work is grounded in French culinary theory, outlining over 100 core techniques (e.g., sautéing, poaching, grilling, etc.) that every cook should know. Simple preparations demystify the basics, and the photographic glossary is inspired. One of the best books for beginners interested in cooking theory.

COOKS ILLUSTRATED EDS. The New Best Recipe: All New Edition. America's Test Kitchen. 2004. 1040p. illus. ISBN 0-936184-74-4. $35. In this update to the 1999 original, the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine examined classic recipes and tried many variations until they achieved their vision of perfection. Some cooks really appreciate the comments on rejected versions of the dish. Tie-in with the PBS series America's Test Kitchen. (LJ 10/15/04)

The Gourmet Cookbook: More Than 1000 Recipes. Houghton. 2004. 1056p. ed. by Ruth Reichl. index. ISBN 0-618-37408-6. $40. This long-awaited behemoth represents the best of Gourmet magazine and is a treasure for any collection. Aimed at more experienced home cooks, the 1200 recipes range from simple, all-American dishes to more complex, exotic cuisines. (LJ10/15/04)

KAFKA, BARBARA. Roasting: A Simple Art. Morrow. 1995. 372p. photogs. index. ISBN 0-688-13135-2. $28. Excellent instructions for anyone who's been afraid to ruin an expensive cut of meat. But noncarnivores will enjoy the outstanding chapter on roasting vegetables ("and some fruits"). (LJ 12/95)

The King Arthur Flour Baker's Companion: The All-Purpose Baking Cookbook. Countryman. Sept. 2003. 640p. illus. index. ISBN 0-88150-581-1. $35. This comprehensive guide from the Vermont supplier of high-quality ingredients and equipment offers sensible advice on everything from measuring to tools, along with historical notes and nutritional information. Following the recipes and detailed explanations, amateur bakers will be able to produce baked delights, from breakfast pastries to desserts. (LJ 8/03)

MADISON, DEBORAH. Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. Broadway. 1997. 752p. illus. index. ISBN 0-7679-0014-6. $40. Madison is the Julia Child of vegetarian cooking. Her well-written and comprehensive volume emphasizes fresh, seasonal cooking. Not just for vegetarians—as the title notes. (LJ 9/15/97)

*RAICHLEN, STEVEN. How To Grill: The Complete Illustrated Book of Barbecue Techniques. Workman. 2001. 498p. illus. index. ISBN 0-7611-2482-9. $35; pap. ISBN 0-7611-2014-9. $19.95. Indispensable advice on every aspect of grilling and smoking diverse foods from lobster to tofu; there's even a chapter on desserts.

SCHNEIDER, ELIZABETH. Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini: The Essential Reference. Morrow. 2001. 804p. photogs. index. ISBN 0-688-15260-0. $65. Produce specialist Schneider covers the more exotic vegetables making their way to our grocery stores today. For the more adventurous cook. With 500 recipes.

STEIN, RICK. Rick Stein's Complete Seafood: A Step-by-Step Reference. Ten Speed. 2004. 264p. illus. ISBN 1-58008-568-7. $40. A British chef/restaurateur/teacher presents a course in cooking seafood. The clear instructions and photographs are especially useful for cooks afraid to broil flounder or grill shrimp. More accomplished chefs will appreciate James Peterson's excellent Fish & Shellfish: The Cook's Indispensable Companion (Morrow. 1996. ISBN 0-688-12737-1. $40; LJ 2/15/96.)

Larousse Gastronomique. rev. ed. Potter, dist. by Crown. 2001. 1360p. ed. by Prosper Montage. photogs. index. ISBN 0-609-60971-8. $85. An indispensable resource for culinary terms and techniques, updated with color photos, 3500 recipes, and a more global perspective. (LJ 11/15/01)

*MCGEE, HAROLD. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. rev. ed. Scribner. 2004. 896p. bibliog. illus. index. ISBN 0-684-80001-2. $40. The long-awaited revision of the 1984 classic explains the how and why behind what happens in the kitchen. Buy a copy to circulate, though—cooks will want to read it cover to cover. (LJ 1/05)

The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford Univ. 1999. 892p. ed. by Alan Davidson. illus. bibliog. index. ISBN 0-19-211579-0. $65. This engagingly written reference features 2650 alphabetically arranged entries on food, food products, food history, and cooking terms. (LJ 10/15/99)

Allrecipes™
www.allrecipes.com

A great, comprehensive source for home-style recipes—with 117 ways to make meatloaf. The real value lies in the recipe user reviews, which frequently note variations and possible pitfalls. The powerful search engine includes "search using ingredients you have" and "search by cooking time." While membership is free, paid premium features (not seen) include access to online cookbooks and a Nutri-Planner. RSS feeds available.

Epicurious
www.epicurious.com

Produced by Condénet, this site includes "most" recipes from Condé Nast magazines Bon Appetit and Gourmet, as well as some dishes from Self and Parade. Recipes can be searched by preparation method, season, and "special considerations" such as kid-friendly and low-carb. Another handy tool is the option to exclude recipes with common allergens, like nuts and shellfish. There is a separate drinks database.