Styling Your Grooming Resources

Personal grooming is one of those subjects that drives collection development librarians crazy. The basics—hair styling, skin care, and makeup—remain the same, but the skills and trends behind them are changing constantly. Looks originate on the runways of Paris and Milan before crossing over to New York City and Los Angeles, where they are highlighted in magazines. By the time the rest of the country has picked up on these innovations, they are already somewhat out-of-date.

While libraries can never be as au courant as Vogue, they can still provide reliable information on timeless beauty basics, from applying eyeliner to setting a chignon to getting Botox injections (a Hollywood craze that is turning into a norm). This article reflects that philosophy, concentrating on how-to books for small and large libraries.

Those in dire financial straits might want to limit their purchases to one or two overviews and men's and women's general interest magazines (e.g., GQ, Details, Essence, and Redbook), which regularly run articles on skin, hair, and makeup styles for a variety of ethnic groups. In addition to those items, large libraries can look into acquiring more specialized materials such as titles that address the psychology of beauty and its meaning in today's society.

Publishers are now beginning to recognize that beauty is not just one look or skin color and that ethnic women require care regimens tailored to their own particular needs. (For example, women of color tend to have hair that is very fragile and easily damaged, while their skin is less prone to wrinkling than Caucasian skin.) As this bibliography shows, publications for African American women are increasing (especially in hair care), but those for Asian women and Latinas are still few and far between. Men have it even worse, even though men's magazines have been encouraging their readers to care about their appearance for 20-some years.

Just as it has with the fashion industry, the cult of celebrity has infiltrated the beauty biz. Your patrons, then, will most likely ask for books with brand names. Makeup artists such as Bobbi Brown, Sonia Kashuk, and the late Kevyn Aucoin have launched makeup lines and, in some cases, published best-selling application guides.

Hairstylists like Frederik Fekkai and skin gurus Nicholas Perricone and Howard Murad have also jumped on the franchise bandwagon. For more information on emerging stars and trends, check out the "editor's picks" on web sites of cosmetic companies, makeup emporiums (sephora.com in particular), and women's magazines.

The amount of time between a trend's creation in Milan to its application in the Midwest has been vastly reduced with the increasing popularity of the Internet. This makes determining a book's shelf life more difficult. But as long as your collection centers on basic topics, you can get away with weeding your collection every five years. Remember: even the basics need updating, as new tools and techniques to brush, blend, and scrub are invented.

It is interesting to note that many of these books are produced in the spiral-bound format, giving readers a hands-free approach to following the directions and illustrations. Starred [*] items are essential for all collections.

*Begoun, Paula. Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me: An Eye-Opening Guide to Brand Name Cosmetics. 6th ed. Beginning Pr. 2003. 1362p. ISBN 1-877988-30-8. pap. $27.95.
Begoun (see also Don't Go Shopping for Hair Care Products Without Me, below) reviews thousands of products from cleansers and moisturizers through foundations, lip and eye colors, blushers, and mascaras while inspecting their ingredients. Arranging the book by product type, she notes possible irritants, carcinogens, companies against animal testing, and products that make unsubstantiated claims. Separates the hype from the reality.

*Berg, Rona. Beauty: The New Basics. Workman. 2001. 404p. illus. bibliog. index. ISBN 0-7611-0186-1. pap. $19.95.
Berg, former beauty editor of the New York Times Magazine, examines everything you need to know about hair and skin care, bath and body, aging, skin cancer, makeup, home spa treatments, aromatherapy, and cosmetic surgery. She includes a directory of day and destination spas and recommended salons. Amusing time lines give thumbnail histories of style and popular products. Essential for small collections in particular.

The Essence Total Makeover: Body, Beauty, Spirit. Three Rivers: Crown. 2001. 216p. ed. by Patricia Mignon Hinds. illus. index. ISBN 0-609-80527-4. pap. $18.
Director of Essence Books, Hinds provides practical tips on caring for skin, hair, body, and spirit. Glossy and attractive, this comprehensive volume is aimed at African American women.

Fornay, Alfred. The African American Woman's Guide to Successful Makeup & Skincare. rev. ed. Wiley. 2002. 184p. illus. index. ISBN 0-471-40278-8. pap. $16.95.
Former beauty editor of Ebony magazine, Fornay covers basic skin care and types, aging, and special problems such as acne and facial hair. He also provides guidance in selecting colors to complement skin tone and applying makeup to downplay flaws and accentuate good points. With a chapter on skin care for men.

*Latina Magazine Eds. & Belén Aranda-Alvarado. Latina Beauty: A Get-Gorgeous Guide for Every Mujer. Hyperion. 2000. 224p. illus. ISBN 0-7868-6669-1. $29.95.
The editors of Latina tackle skin, hair, makeup, nails, and so on. While other titles cover the same material, this is one of the few guides tailored to Hispanic women and should be included in all collections serving them.

Pedersen, Stephanie. K.I.S.S. Guide to Beauty. DK. (Keep It Simple). 2001. 352p. illus. index. ISBN 0-7894-8146-4. pap. $19.95.
This no-nonsense guide addresses the usual suspects, with instruction on basic techniques and tips for special looks. Clearly written, it will appeal to people who are intimidated by the higher-end guides (e.g., Aucoin's Face Forward, below).

Winter, Ruth. A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About More Than 6000 of the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Toiletries and Cosmetics. 5th ed. Three Rivers: Crown. 1999. 480p. illus. bibliog. ISBN 0-609-80367-0. pap. $16.
Less complete than Begoun in Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me (above), Winter, an award-winning science writer, here covers much the same ground at a slightly lower price. She focuses on "cosmeceuticals" that purport to heal and restore as well as beautify.

*Begoun, Paula. Don't Go Shopping for Hair Products Without Me. 2d ed. Beginning Pr. 2000. 642p. bibliog. index. ISBN 1-877988-26-X. pap. $19.95.
This does for hair products what Begoun's earlier book (see above) does for cosmetics. The ingredients in shampoos, conditioners, mousses, gels, hair sprays, coloring products, and home perms are examined and explained. There are caveats on the possible damage they can cause and what expectations may not be met.

*Bonner, Lonnice Brittenum. Good Hair: For Colored Girls Who've Considered Weaves When the Chemicals Became Too Ruff. Three Rivers: Crown. 1994. 98p. illus. bibliog. ISBN 0-517-88151-9. pap. $9.95.
A decade ago, Bonner (see also below) broke ground with this examination and celebration of black hair. She explains structure and texture while exploring the damaging effects of hot combs and chemical relaxants, in addition to hair care essentials and how to style crimps and corkscrews. Although she doesn't cover a wide range of natural 'dos, her overarching message—that black women should embrace rather than tame their hair—makes this essential.

*Bonner, Lonnice Brittenum. Plaited Glory: For Colored Girls Who've Considered Braids, Locks, and Twists. Three Rivers: Crown. 1996. 128p. illus. index. ISBN 0-517-88498-4. pap. $12.
This picks up where Good Hair (above) leaves off, expanding the types of styles covered to include locks and braids (both with and without extensions), twists, Nubian knots, and other natural styles. Bonner also discusses the maintenance of such styles and what to do when they have grown out.

*Ferrell, Pamela. Let's Talk Hair: Every Black Woman's Personal Consultation for Healthy Growing Hair. Cornrows & Co. 1996. 240p. illus. ISBN 0-939183-02-1. $24.95.
This solid introduction to black hair care is somewhat more comprehensive if a little less hip than Bonner's books. Ferrell, a leading authority on holistic hair care, emphasizes gentle cleansing, moisturizing, and overall protection from breakage and splitting and discusses hairstyles besides locks and braids. A good list of products to avoid is included.

Greenwood-Robinson, Maggie. Hair Savers for Women: A Complete Guide to Preventing and Treating Hair Loss. Three Rivers: Crown. 2000. 261p. illus. index. ISBN 0-609-80445-6. pap. $14.
Greenwood-Robinson (Ph.D., nutrition) addresses the little-known problem of female hair loss, which affects both young and old. Unfortunately, the author centers on preventing hair loss with herbal remedies and electrical stimulation—neither of which has been proven effective. Still, she covers the pharmaceutical remedies and hair transplants that have long been part of men's arsenal against baldness.

Handel, Gloria. Cutting Your Family's Hair. Sterling. 2002. 128p. illus. index. ISBN 0-8069-5851-0. pap. $14.95.
This is a simple, basic guide to long, medium, and short cuts for men, women, and children of all ages. Generously illustrated with a concentration on straight or only slightly wavy Caucasian hair.

*Massey, Lorraine with Deborah Chiel. Curly Girl: The Handbook. Workman. 2002. 148p. permanent paper. illus. ISBN 0-7611-2300-3. pap. $9.95.
The curly/kinky hair problem is not limited to African American women. Many other ethnicities, including European and Middle Eastern, have hair that ranges from medium to very curly. Rather than promote straight hairstyles, salon owner Massey emphasizes accepting curly hair and working with it. With historical vignettes and recipes for homemade hair care products. (LJ 7/02)

Murad, Howard, M.D. with Dianne Partie Lange. The Murad Method: Wrinkle-Proof, Repair, and Renew Your Skin with the Proven 5-Week Program. St. Martin's. 2003. 272p. illus. ISBN 0-312-30414-5. $24.95.
Murad, the dermatologist who introduced alpha-hydroxy acids to the public, outlines his regimen of internal and external skin care that purports to reduce and eliminate the effects of free radicals on the skin. He includes a comprehensive description of skin functions and environmental threats. Murad sells his own line of skin care products, which makes this title, in effect, a print infomercial. He has fans across the country, however, and they are bound to want this.

Perricone, Nicholas, M.D. The Perricone Prescription: A Physician's 28-Day Program for Total Body and Face Rejuvenation. HarperResource: HarperCollins. 2002. 274p. illus. bibliog. index. ISBN 0-06-018879-0. $27.50.
Dermatologist Perricone theorizes on how good fats and bad carbohydrates affect the skin and how a regimen of exercise, proper diet, and vitamin supplements (which he sells) can reduce signs of aging. Some self-contradiction, but this is popular and may be in demand.

Aucoin, Kevyn. Face Forward. Little, Brown. 2000. 175p. illus. ISBN 0-316-28644-3. $31.95; pap. ISBN 0-316-28705-9. $20.
Like all of Aucoin's books, this one is a lushly illustrated compendium of fabulous faces, some famous, some not. Accompanying each look is a brief description of what he has done to achieve it. Most real women will not be able to re-create these looks, which range from Winona Ryder as Elizabeth Taylor to Gwenyth Paltrow as James Dean. It's rather like a how-to-paint book with Aucoin detailing application techniques. Although Aucoin's artistry isn't easily emulated, it does inspire. Gorgeous!

Bibiano, Bernadine. Make-Up: Fresh Ideas for Fantastic Looks. Atria: S. & S. 2002. 112p. illus. index. ISBN 0-7434-5668-8. $17.
Although written under the auspices of the Body Shop® cosmetic company, this title does not call for specific products. Instead, it provides a lavishly illustrated array of makeup looks, from the everyday to the wild, with step-by-step instructions. A good, basic guide to the subject. Spiral-bound.

*Brown, Bobbi with Sally Wadyka. Bobbi Brown Beauty Evolution: A Guide to a Lifetime of Beauty. HarperResource: HarperCollins. 2002. 224p. illus. ISBN 0-06-008881-8. $29.95.
Brown declares that "Beauty is the result of realizing what is special about you," suggesting that readers look beyond the retouched images in magazines to see the possibilities of individual features. Addressing all ages and races, she recommends products that enhance your assets, even during pregnancy and illness. With a chapter on men.

Kashuk, Sonia. Real Beauty. Potter, dist. by Crown. 2003. 138p. illus. ISBN 1-4000-4772-2. $27.50 with DVD.
Like Brown (above), Kashuk stresses beauty from within. She showcases women of all ages and ethnic types, covering nutrition and fitness in addition to the usual hair and skin care. The accompanying DVD shows the suggested makeup techniques being performed. Spiral-bound.

Kimura, Margaret. Asian Beauty. HarperResource: HarperCollins. 2001. 224p. illus. ISBN 0-06-018473-6. $30.
Kimura, an Asian American makeup artist, offers the first application guide for women of Asian descent. Using her "shadows and light" technique, she demonstrates looks for night and day. Essential for libraries serving Asian populations.

Nars, François. Makeup Your Mind. PowerHouse. 2002. 284p. illus. ISBN 1-57687-099-5. $39.95.
Star stylist Nars offers a guide to fixing problem areas and highlighting positive features. Using before and after photos of women and men of different backgrounds and ages, Nars transforms his subjects using simple techniques. The acetate instructional pages lay over the finished face and point out where, how, and what makeup was applied. Useful for extreme and everyday looks. Spiral-bound.

Dupriest, Laura. Natural Beauty: Pamper Yourself with Salon Secrets at Home. Prima. 2002. 225p. illus. index. ISBN 0-7615-2099-6. pap. $10.95.
From the PBS program of the same name, this provides recipes for at-home beauty treatments, including facials, manicures, and waxing. Warns against the hyped claims of cosmetic-counter products and emphasizes useful kitchen ingredients that produce the same results at a fraction of the cost.

Hadady, Letha. Healthy Beauty: Using Nature's Secrets To Look Great and Feel Terrific. Wiley. 2003. 272p. illus. ISBN 0-471-07534-5. $24.95.
Hadady incorporates Asian and Western therapies and tips from celebrities to develop a physical and spiritual beauty regimen that relies on herbs, homeopathic remedies, and stress reduction. Few of these techniques have been scientifically tested, but most are harmless, personal sensitivities aside.

Lee, Helen. The Tao of Beauty: Chinese Herbal Secrets to Feeling Good and Looking Great. Broadway. 1999. 262p. illus. index. ISBN 0-7679-0256-4. pap. $19.
Lee describes the Chinese theories of chi, or life force, and the necessity for balancing the yin and yang, which create harmony, health, and beauty. Recipes are included for various herbal preparations, teas, and soups that restore balance and contribute to the body's well-being. Something for New Agers.

Copeland, Michelle, M.D., with Alexandra S. Postman. Change Your Looks, Change Your Life: Quick Fixes and Cosmetic Surgery Solutions for Looking Younger, Feeling Healthier, and Living Better. HarperResource: HarperCollins. 2002. 288p. illus. index. ISBN 0-06-621373-8. pap. $27.95.
Plastic surgeon Copeland introduces the latest plastic surgery techniques for improving all areas of the face and body: collagen, Botox, laser, and peels, as well as surgical procedures. Topics include preparation and healing, the popularity of procedures among thirty- to fortysomethings, and why surgery can change body shape in ways that weight loss can't. Very thorough, this also discusses what these "miracles" won't do and how to avoid the Michael Jackson syndrome.

*Mitchell, Deborah. The Botox Miracle: Get "Face-Lift" Results—Without Painful Surgery or Recovery Time. Pocket. 2002. 224p. index. ISBN 0-7434-6463-X. pap. $11.
A medical writer and journalist describes how wrinkles develop and how Botox works to reduce or eliminate them. Covered are how to find a doctor, what to expect during treatment, the frequency of treatments, side effects, and possible complications. Also describes other wrinkle remedies for Botox-resistant areas. Simply written, this is a good introduction to the subject.

Narins, Rhoda, M.D. & Paul Jarrod Frank, M.D. Turn Back the Clock Without Losing Time: A Complete Guide to Quick and Easy Cosmetic Rejuvenation. Random. 2002. 224p. illus. index. ISBN 0-609-80871-0. pap. $14.
This is a primer for those considering skin procedures, including Botox, chemical peels, fillers such as collagen, fat transfers, liposuction, lifts, hair transplants, and varicose vein treatments. Narins and Frank describe each procedure, point out what it will and will not achieve, and stress sun protection before and after. Although they sell a skin care line, it is only listed in the appendix.

Parker, Nancy & Nancy Kalish. Beautiful Brows: The Ultimate Guide to Styling, Shaping, and Maintaining Your Eyebrows. Three Rivers: Crown. 2000. 128p. illus. index. ISBN 0-609-80670-X. pap. $7.99.
In this brief yet complete compendium, Parker (founder of eyebrowz.com) helps readers determine the right brow shape and explains tweezing, waxing, stencils, filling out sparse brows, and trimming shaggy ones. If you need a book on brows, this is it.

Zaoui, Myriam & Eric Malka. The Art of Shaving. Potter, dist. by Crown. 2002. 112p. illus. ISBN 0-609-60915-7. pap. $17.
Zaoui and Malka, a wife and husband who co-own several Art of Shaving stores, thoroughly examine the nature of men's skin and facial hair. They describe and rate tools and other products, techniques, and injuries. A niche-filler, as there are almost no grooming books for men, but hardly an essential purchase.

Etcoff, Nancy. Survival of the Prettiest: The Science of Beauty. Anchor: Doubleday. 2000. 336p. bibliog. index. ISBN 0-385-47942-5. pap. $14.
In contrast to Wolf (below), Etcoff, a psychologist at Harvard Medical School, presents the evolution of our conception of beauty as a biological adaptation that seeks healthy, fertile mates and makes us instinctively seek partners whose physical characteristics reflect this likelihood. She cites studies that show that babies respond to the same faces that adults consider attractive and concludes that our idea of attractiveness is hard-wired into our subconscious; it isn't politically incorrect to try to beautify oneself—it's a biological urge.

Wolf, Naomi. The Beauty Myth: How Images of Beauty Are Used Against Women. HarperPerennial: HarperCollins. 2002. 348p. bibliog. index. ISBN 0-06-051218-0. pap. $14.95.
Wolf argues that our perception of beauty is imposed by a patriarchal society to keep women in their place. Drawing on exhaustive research, she makes some interesting points. Though something of a landmark publication, this has aged badly. Still, comprehensive collections may want to consider.

Allure. m. $15. Conde Nast, 4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036; 800-678-1825; subscriptions@allure.com. ISSN 1054-7711. www.allure.com.
Perhaps more than any other general woman's interest magazine, Allure focuses on grooming and beauty. Every issue features a comprehensive article on a particular aspect of beauty—tweezing, eye makeup, or blow-drying, for example—complete with a "cheat sheet" to help you through the process. Also includes the usual fashion and celebrity articles.

Essence. m. $18.96. Essence Communications, 1500 Broadway, 6th fl., New York, NY 10036; 800-274-9398. ISSN 0014-0880. www.essence.com.
Style magazine aimed at African American women. Good coverage of makeup, skin and hair care, and styles, as well as fashion.

Latina. m. $12. Latina Media Ventures, 1500 Broadway, Suite 700, New York, NY 10036; 800-274-1521. ISSN 1099-890X. www.latina.com.
Much the same idea as Allure and Essence, but aimed at a Hispanic readership.

Pamela Taylor's Professional Makeup Course. color. 32 min. Makeup, Inc., 119 W. 23rd St., Suite 404, New York, NY 10011-2427; 212-620-5792. 1999. ISBN 0-9677309-0-2. $39.95.
Taylor demonstrates techniques for selecting and applying concealer, foundation, contouring and highlighting colors, as well as eye makeup and lips. Shows differences between creating a look for day and one for evening.

These sites can also be useful to beginners in teaching techniques and providing up-to-the minute styling, but one must always be aware of the underlying sales pitch.

Beauty www.beauty.com
An online catalog of a wide variety of beauty products.

Beauty Buys www.beautybuys.com
Beauty products at discount prices, includes both drugstore and cosmetic-counter brands.

Beauty Buzz www.beautybuzz.com
With its motto "look good and do good," this combines beauty information and links to foundations and charities.

Beauty Guru www.beautyguru.com
A well-designed site that reviews popular products, offers advice, and provides links to other relevant sites.

NaturallyNappy.com naturallynappy.com
Both this site and that of its sister company blackmarketproducts.com provide limited advice and links catering to the hair product needs of African Americans. The main focus is the sale of the e-magazine, which you can download for a fee.

Sephora www.sephora.com
This offers over 100 different brand-name products from skin and hair to makeup with a special section dedicated to tips and trends for the novice and savvy shopper alike.