Atlanta à la Carte

If you have not been to Atlanta since 1991, you may not recognize downtown, or the rest of the city for that matter.Historic buildings once hidden behind sagging façades have emerged with facelifts and refurbished interior spaces. This stunning transformation is partly a legacy of the 1996 Olympics, sustained by a residential building boom affecting older parts of the city and nearby suburbs. Downtown Atlanta, this year's primary convention "neighborhood," has attracted 3000 residents into converted loft and tower units, and an additional 30,000 new units have been built or are planned within three miles of the city's heart.

Atlanta doesn't have a signature landmark like Fisherman's Wharf or Times Square to gather visitors in one area, but each locale has some points of interest of which the local residents are proud. The 23-acre Centennial Olympic Park (adjacent to the Georgia World Congress Center) has transformed the convention district. Locals and tourists come here to play in the synchronized spray of fountains, take in free concerts, and enjoy the green space. While most of Atlanta's museums are not located downtown, the High Museum of Art's Folk Art and Photography Gallery lives in the lower level of the Georgia-Pacific Building (133 Peachtree St., Mon.–Sat. 10 a.m.–5 p.m.). Best of all, this treasure is always free. Another Atlanta attraction worth a visit, the Historic Oakland Cemetery (248 Oakland Ave. 688-2107) offers standard, customized, or twilight tours. And, of course, for visiting librarians there is that home away from home, the Central Library of the Atlanta-Fulton Public Library System (One Margaret Mitchell Square, 730-1700. Mon.– Thurs. 9 a.m.–9 p.m.; Fri.– Sat. 9 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun. 2–6 p.m.).

The city does not lack for places to dine. When guests come into town, locals are most likely to create special occasions around dining out owing to the abundance of good restaurants. Attractive commercial zones in the gentrified neighborhood of Virginia-Highland and the gentle town of Decatur lure locals with tantalizing food options. North along Peachtree Street from Midtown to Buckhead, a slew of excellent restaurants await the gourmand. Newer pockets of restaurants in Cabbagetown near 14th Street and Howell Mill Road and around Candler Park and East Atlanta are thronged with happy customers. Further out, immigrants from Asia and Latin America have transformed ragtag Buford Highway into a kaleidoscopic paradise of "back home" eateries.

Most of Atlanta's neighborhoods are far-flung and car-dependent, so we've concentrated on those easily accessible by Atlanta's public transportation system, MARTA, or an affordable cab ride. If you find yourself in another part of the city, good information on Atlanta restaurants is found online at zagats.com and at access-atlanta.com/restaurants. We recommend that you spend a few minutes with the Atlanta Journal Constitution's food reviews at ajc.com/living/restaurants, with more than 600 entries.

Consider making reser-vations before you arrive. If vegetarian options, smoking, attire, particular credit cards, or other considerations are important to you or your guests, call ahead for details. The area code for all the restaurants here is 404. Cost estimates in this guide are based on the average price of appetizers and an entrée and do not include desserts, drinks, tax, or tip.

Amazingly, people live downtown now. Sleepy residents can be seen walking their dogs or strolling to the corner to get coffee and the paper. We're still not a 24-hour city, but Georgia State University's continued expansion and the numerous lofts being renovated bring the promise of street life after dark. Another factor in this transformation is the presence of the Ambassador Force of Downtown Atlanta, on patrol seven days a week between 7:30 a.m. and 10:30 p.m. Don't hesitate to ask these highly visible envoys for directions, local information, or even an escort to a MARTA station after dark. The restaurant scene downtown has not quite kept pace with changes elsewhere. Downtown food establishments tend to be no-frills affairs, focusing on capturing office workers and tourists. That said, there are interesting dining choices during daylight hours. Imagine that breakfast and lunch will be taken on the run. For more compelling dining, we suggest you venture elsewhere.

Ali Baba's Turkish & Mediterranean Delights 60 Broad St., 681-3997. Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–3 p.m. $

Broad Street is a popular destination for lunch owing to the variety of restaurants. Among the best is the authentic Middle Eastern cuisine served from this deli, the size of a large janitor's closet. A Delta flight attendant who flies regularly to Istanbul judged both the owners and the food to be "the real deal." Another favorite spot nearby is Rosa's Pizza (62 Broad St., 521-2596. Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–6 p.m. $). People line up out the door for slices that should make any pizza aficionado happy, and the pastas and calzones are made with Rosa's own sauce.

Azio Downtown 229 Peachtree St. (entrance on International Blvd.), 222-0808. Daily 11 a.m.–10 p.m. $$–$$$

Here you'll find classy yet comfortable Italian cuisine, including homemade pastas, personal pizzas, seafood, and salads. Be careful not to fill up on the plentiful fresh bread served while you're waiting because the meal sizes are ample. This place is packed at noon so the trick is to arrive before 11:45 a.m. or after 1 p.m.

Barley's Billiards 338 Peachtree St., 522-2522. Mon.–Fri. 11:30–1:30 a.m., Sat. noon–1:30 a.m. $–$$

The most unusual eatery downtown might be Barley's: a 10,000 square foot pool hall and bar, with 32 Brunswick tables, lovingly restored by followers of Guru Paramahansa Yogananda and featuring nonsmoking ambiance, cloth napkins, and a killer menu. The portabello, peppers, and pesto sandwich on foccacia is perfect. Conveniently located near the Hyatt, the AmeriSuites Hotel, and the Best Western Inn at the Peachtrees, this is a surprisingly elegant experience.

Calypso Café 58 Walton St., 589-0024. Mon.–Sat., 11 a.m.–7 p.m. $

Don't let the generic décor fool you; the food and laid-back attitudes of staff will transport you right to the Caribbean. This place is popular with everyone from downtown workers to Georgia State students to transplanted Jamaicans. If you are in a hurry, be warned that the service is usually on "island time."

The City Grill 50 Hurt Plaza, 524- 2489. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Mon.–Fri. 5–10 p.m.; Sat. 6–10 p.m. $$$$–$$$$$

Occupying a dramatic space within the historic Hurt Building (formerly the Federal Reserve Bank for the Southeast), City Grill has been the best restaurant in this part of downtown for 15 years. A handsome rotunda, grand staircase, and large murals of a pine-dotted savanna provide a perfect atmosphere for special occasions. Menus for lunch and dinner are limited to a handful of superb options: the cuisine is contemporary American celebrating fresh ingredients and bright flavors. Several private and semiprivate dining rooms are available. Reservations at dinnertime are strongly recommended.

Corner Bakery Café 270 Peachtree St., 215-9000. Mon.–Fri. 7 a.m.–3 p.m. $

Offering all things bread-related, this is the perfect pit stop for conferencegoers staying in the north end of the hotel district. There is takeout for those already running late and plenty of tables for early risers to sit down to plan your day—or to spread out your work for an informal meeting. A wide variety of lunches are offered on some of downtown's best fresh-baked loaves.

Dailey's 17 International Blvd., 681-3303. Mon.–Fri., 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Sun.–Thurs. 5:30–11 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30 p.m.–midnight. $$–$$$

Since 1981, Dailey's has been a reliable downtown mainstay. Its original exposed brick walls and the antique carousel horses gave it a loft feel long before Atlanta had discovered lofts. The eclectic menu changes frequently, but it's hard to make a bad choice among the specials. You might want to eat light because the real reason Dailey's continues to be so popular is the dessert bar, which is huge beyond belief. At night, Dailey's downstairs is a popular martini and cigar bar.

Icon Bar and Bistro 85 Poplar St., 827-0040. Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–3 p.m.; Mon.–Thurs. 5–11 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5 p.m.–2 a.m. $–$$

Stylish and sophisticated, this café in the heart of Fairlie-Poplar is run by the same folks who manage Karma, the late-night club a few doors down the block. It is a place to linger rather than get something quick. Its eclectic Italian menu fills a void in an otherwise restaurant-challenged neighborhood.

Lombardi's 94 Pryor St., 522-6568. Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–9 p.m.; Sat. 5–10 p.m. $$

This European bistro featuring basic Italian dishes sits above Underground Atlanta, an underground mall in one of Atlanta's oldest surviving commercial districts. Government employees, office workers, and tourists converge here because the restaurant is the best in the area—the attractive space is filled with comfortable seating, and the food is consistently delicious. Regulars love the Caesar salad, mussels in broth, hefty panini, and risotto. Reservations accepted.

Mumbo Jumbo 89 Park Place, 523-0330. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Sun.–Thurs. 5:30–11 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30 p.m.–midnight. $$–$$$

Nondowntown workers and visiting celebrities alike descend on this trendy restaurant. Its seasonal New American menu—ranging from Diver Scallops with Pumpkin Risotto to Argentinean Beef Tenderloin to Seared Big Eye Tuna with White Bean Puree—changes daily. There's simply nothing like it downtown. The bar and lounge are a perfect complement.

Ruth's Chris Steakhouse 267 Marietta St., 223-6500. Daily, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. $$$–$$$$

This franchise relative newcomer to downtown is the only restaurant located at Centennial Olympic Park. Locals and visitors will enjoy the enchanting view of the park and skyline. What's good here? Filets, New York strips, rib-eyes, porterhouses—in other words, steaks, steaks, and more steaks.

Sacred Grounds 123-B Luckie St., 588-0666. Mon.–Fri. 7 a.m.–3 p.m.; Sat. 8 a.m.–noon. $

Especially on Saturday mornings, this is where downtown residents flock for their neighborhood's best coffee and a light breakfast. A welcome and welcoming café, it also offers fresh-baked desserts and a limited lunch menu.

Sun Dial Restaurant 210 Peachtree St., 589-7506. Mon.–Sun. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Sun.–Fri. 6–11 p.m., Sat. 5:30 p.m.– 1 a.m. $$–$$$$

Located at the top of the Westin Peachtree Plaza, the Sun Dial revolves 360° every hour. Steak is a mainstay here (over 70,000 pounds are served a year), but there are a few seafood and chicken entrées. Even if you don't eat here, the glass elevator ride to the viewing area near the restaurant on the 72nd floor is a must!

Sylvia's 241 Central Ave., 529-9692. Mon.–Thurs. noon–9:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. noon–10:30 p.m. $$–$$$

Sylvia Woods has fashioned this Atlanta version of her famous Harlem original of the same name. This upscale soul food eatery includes the barbecued ribs, fried catfish, salmon croquettes, smothered chicken, pork chops, and fried sweet potatoes that Sylvia is famous for.

As much as downtown is changing, most of our cultural and social life is away from the skyscrapers and in the tree-lined neighborhoods. People are moving back inside the perimeter after three decades of trying to leave the city proper, and the in-town neighborhoods are thriving. Since many downtown Atlanta restaurants are closed for dinner, a short MARTA train or bus ride to another locale is worth the effort.

With Peachtree Street as its backbone, Midtown extends north from Downtown in a 25-block stretch beyond the High Museum and eastward into the tree-cloaked neighborhoods. Long-abandoned and derelict blocks are filling up with attractive apartments, condominiums, new and converted office spaces, and an exciting range of established restaurants and newcomers.

Baraonda 710 Peachtree St., 879-9962. Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Mon.–Thurs. 5–10:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5–11 p.m.; Sun. noon–10 p.m. $$

Tasty Neapolitan fare and a casual environment await you in an appealing setting of closely spaced tables with a sliver of sidewalk dining. Locals looking for good value pour in at lunch and dinner for thin-crust pizza, richly dressed salad, and a small selection of antipasti. Standard pasta dishes—try penne with eggplant and mozzarella or the simple spaghetti—and a handful of entrées round out the offerings. Service is friendly and attentive. A fast meal can be had at the bar.

Eno 800 Peachtree St., 685-3191. Sun.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Mon.–Thurs. 5–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5–11 p.m. $$–$$$

This impressive Midtown restaurant offers an outstanding menu of Mediterranean dishes, chiefly Italian and French. Terrific wines are featured in a handsome space with seating options at bar, sidewalk tables, and formal interiors. Lunch can be ordered and consumed in under an hour, to suit the demands of nearby office tenants, but most diners are here for gentler rejuvenation. The bar menu features light fare, and the dining room, a full menu. Sunday brunch is one of the best in the city. Reservations accepted.

Gordon Biersch 848 Peachtree Rd., 870-0805. Sun.–Thurs 11:30 a.m.–midnight; Fri.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 a.m. $$Sitting solidly amidst new construction, this 400-seat restaurant/brewery on Peachtree is a favorite of Midtown singles, who spill out onto the long, shaded patio. Many interior seats are cozy banquettes in a high-ceilinged, active space. Newcomers are offered free samples of the locally brewed beers before selecting among the German-style lagers. The menu offers large salads and appetizers that are meals in themselves, but don't overlook the delicious pizza and hearty sandwiches. Big appetites are sated by hefty beef, chicken, and fish entrées à la California's Bay Area.

Mary Mac's Tea Room 224 Ponce de Leon Ave., 876-1800. Mon.–Fri. 7 a.m.–9 p.m.; Sat.–Sun. 9 a.m.–9 p.m. $–$$

At this Atlanta institution, once-ubiquitous regional fare like turnip green pot likker (referring to the liquid that greens are cooked in), country ham and eggs with red-eye gravy, fried chicken, smothered liver, and other entrées can be paired with an oh-so Southern assortment of side dishes. Diners write their own meal orders on cards that are whisked to the kitchen by solicitous staff. Several interconnected dining rooms provide great opportunities for watching the locals settle in for a dose of Southern hospitality. You can still hear gently drawled English here. For dessert, consider a two-block stroll east down Ponce de Leon for Krispy Kreme donuts. Be alert when the red neon sign out front flashes "Hot Donuts," a signal that fresh confections are rolling off the conveyor belt.

Tamarind Thai Cuisine 80 14th St. NW, 873-4888. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Mon.–Thurs. 5:30–10 p.m.; Fri. 5:30–11 p.m.; Sat. 5–11 p.m.; Sun. 5–10 p.m. $$–$$$

Tamarind is the best Asian restaurant between Downtown and Cheshire Bridge Road. Fresh ingredients, sophisticated décor, and solid recipes scarcely modified for Western tastes make a winning formula. Especially good are the appetizers, Tom Yum and Tom Kha soups, duck and shrimp salads, and green curry. Dishes are meticulously garnished on attractive serving ware. Dinner reservations recommended.

The Varsity 61 North Ave., 881-1706. Sun.–Thurs. 9 a.m.–11:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 9 a.m.–1:30 a.m. $

"What'll ya have, what'll ya have?" is a familiar question to generations of Atlantans who flock to the hazy vastness of The Varsity, especially before and after sports events. No-nonsense staff shout orders for "Glorified Steaks" (burger with tomato, lettuce, and mayo), "Nekkid Dog Walkin" (hotdog, no chili, to go), and "FOs" (frosted orange drinks). Locally produced onion rings and fries grace paper plates that perform the added duty of sponge. Locals admit these are less-than-succulent burgers and slim-gauge dogs, but the energy at the order counter makes the trip worthwhile.

Veni Vidi Vici 41 14th St. NW, 875-8424. Mon.–Thurs. 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m.; Fri. 11:30 a.m.–midnight; Sat. 5 p.m.–midnight; Sun. 5–10 p.m. $$$–$$$$

Curiously located in the side of a parking garage, this handsome restaurant provides a civilized retreat from the heat of the day. Celebrities are frequently spotted in the large dining room, but the consistently good food and service are the reasons to be here. The menu for this local favorite was created by the brilliant Marcella Hazan, and many of her dishes remain today. One is tempted to create a meal from the rich array of antipasti selections. The dozen or so handmade pastas are balanced by a broad range of seafood and meat dishes, several prepared on a wood-burning rotisserie. Dinner reservations recommended.

The Vortex 878 Peachtree St., 875-1667. Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.–2 a.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.– midnight. $–$$

Frequently cited by diners and critics alike as the home of Atlanta's best hamburgers as well as 30 beers on tap, The Vortex attracts a faithful cross-section of Midtown folks. The turkeyburger has its fans, while veggie- and black bean–burgers provide options for vegetarians. An equally good excuse for eating at The Vortex is the stupefying agglomeration of airplanes, skeletons, antique toys, found objects, and two-dimensional art bristling from every square foot of wall and ceiling.

The name Buckhead may conjure up a stuffed big game trophy, but it's actually a trendy residential and commercial stretch along Peachtree Road exploding with restaurants and bars. Thousands of young singles drive here from across the city on weekends, and a good many hang out at the dozens of restaurants within a 10-block radius of the heart of Buckhead. Here are some winners catering more to the serious adult diner.

Anis 2974 Grandview Ave., 233-9889. Mon.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Mon.–Sun. 6–10 p.m. $$–$$$

At this cozy, informal Provençal restaurant, locals request outdoor dining on the oak-shrouded patio. Mussels Marinière and Country Paté provide good first courses, followed by a short entrée list featuring simple pasta and risotto selections or long-running favorites like Crusted Sea Bass with Pepper Caponade and croque monsieur. Expect a leisurely pace in the company of contented diners. Dinner reservations suggested.

Brasserie Le Coze 3393 Peachtree Rd. (in Lenox Square Mall), 266-1440. Mon.–Thurs. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., 5:30-10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m., 5:30-11 p.m. $$$$

Once inside this utterly French brasserie, one quickly forgets that high-end Lenox Mall pulsates just beyond its walls. Menu prices are high but in line with the excellent cuisine. Locals order the signature Skate Wings in Brown Butter, perhaps preceded by the Foie Gras Terrine and a light salad. Service is attentive and unrushed. The only downside is that room noise is exacerbated by marble floors and reflective walls. Both lunch and dinner reservations are highly recommended.

Buckhead Di-ner 3073 Piedmont Rd., 262-3336. Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.–midnight; Sun. 10 a.m.–10 p.m. $$–$$$

Still Atlanta's premier diner, the recently refreshed interiors of mahogany, chrome, neon, and marble draw large crowds most evenings, so expect to wait for a seat (locals prefer the private booths). Classy comfort food held together with rich sauces runs from Hazelnut Crusted Grouper and Spice Rubbed Pork Chops to Merlot Braised Short Ribs. Homemade potato chips and sirloin carpaccio are stand-outs among appetizer and salad courses that offer several enticing options for a complete meal. Peach Bread Pudding with Southern Comfort Cream sits at caloric midpoint between fruit sorbets and rich chocolate desserts.

Café Sunflower 2140 Peachtree Rd., Suite 105, 352-8859. Mon.–Thurs. 11:30 a.m.–9:30 p.m.; Fri. 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Sat. noon–10 p.m. $$

This is rated by most diners and critics as Atlanta's best vegetarian restaurant, and we tend to agree. The long dining room is attractively furnished and decorated, and the wait staff is friendly and knowledgeable. The kitchen gives vegetarian interpretations to several cuisines, but most regulars focus on dishes with Asian influences like noodle bowls, dumplings, and tofu-based entrées. The vegan Chocolate Raspberry Mousse Cake and carrot cake are convincing interpretations. Reservations accepted.

Fogo De Chao 3010 Piedmont Rd., 995-9982. Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–2 p.m.; Sun.–Thurs. 5–10:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5–11 p.m. $$$$

We're talking heaven-on-earth for meat lovers at this all-you-can-eat-for-$35 Brazilian churrascaria. Serious beef offerings—bottom and top sirloin, filet mignon, beef ribs, and rump steak—compete for your attention with leg of lamb, lamb chops, pork loin, pork sausage, and chicken. Gaucho costumed waiters deliver tantalizing skewers of meat to tableside for on-the-spot carving. A vast cold buffet in the center of the restaurant is loaded with salads, cold cuts, marinated vegetables and distinctive sauces. Reservations suggested.

Fratelli di Napoli 2101 Tula St., 351-1533. Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–2 p.m.; Mon.–Sat. 5–11 p.m.; Sun. 4–10 p.m. $$–$$$

The big menu, platter-sized servings, a kinetic atmosphere, and consistently well-prepared food keep this Italian restaurant filled. Knowledgeable staff help you build a balanced meal of salads, pastas, entrées, and vegetables. Generally the seafood, veal, and chicken dishes are good values. Come here if you're a group of four or more looking for a robust experience. Reservations recommended.

Maggiano's Little Italy Restaurant at 3368 Peachtree Rd., 816-9650. Mon.–Wed. 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Thurs. 11a.m.–10 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m.; Sun. 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. $$-$$$

Echoes the successful concept found at Fratelli on a somewhat larger scale. If the typically generous meal is paced with lots of conversation between courses, one is just able to manage bites from the tasty dessert platters. Do not go here for a quiet meal…this is all about large parties. Reservations recommended.

Soleil 3081 Maple Dr., 467-1790. Sun.–Thurs. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., 6–10:00 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., 6–10:30 p.m. $$$

The Atlanta Journal Constitution calls Soleil "consistently one of the best casual French restaurants in Atlanta." The classic café/bistro fare served up in this shaded cottage is soothing without being fussy. Regulars are drawn by the unpretentiously romantic atmosphere. Among the appealing dishes are standards like Roasted Chicken with Mushrooms, Thyme and Glace de Volaille, Mussels in Cream with Curry and Cayenne, and Warm Duck Confit Salad. Come here for a meal without challenges.

Streets in the thriving in-town community of Virginia-Highland were laid out during the 1910s and 1920s. A majority of bungalow-style homes from that era survive today in a deeply shaded landscape. Restaurants and bars appear in irregular clusters along a two-mile stretch of North Highland Avenue, penetrating south into Inman Park. On weekends Atlantans stream in from near and distant suburbs to dine with friends, meander through unique gift shops, and stroll the quieter back streets. Waiting for a table is hardly punishment with such interesting distractions around.

Fritti 309 N. Highland Ave., 880-9559. Wed.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; Mon.–Thurs. 5:30–11 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30 p.m.–midnight. $$

We love the Neapolitan pizzas and two areas for outdoor dining in this hippest of pizzerias, which is housed in an abandoned truck repair shop. The hive-shaped oak-burning oven churns out 35 flavors of thin-crust, flash-baked pies. Ingredients are fresh, and recipes restrained so that mild cheese and vegetable flavors are easy to recognize. For starters choose from an interesting variety of salads. A snazzy graffiti mural outside is balanced by an enormous quilt in the interior dining room. Kick back and enjoy the moment. Reservations accepted.

La Tavola 992 Virginia Ave. NW (at N. Highland Ave.), 873-5430. Mon.–Thurs. 5:30–11:00 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30 p.m.–midnight; Sun. 11 a.m.–3 p.m., 5:30–10 p.m. $$–$$$

La Tavola aptly bills itself as an "authentic trattoria." A covered patio is shared with adjacent restaurant Noche, but we prefer the elegantly simple dining room. Classic Sinatra and other mellow voices gently pipe into the high-ceilinged space. The cuisine is familiar Italian with a bit of innovation. The assorted antipasti platter is rich with imported cheese, cured meats, and olives. Meat and fish entrees are perfectly prepared and presented. Take the indecision out of dessert by opting for the chef's sampling of sweets. Reservations recommended.

Murphy's 997 Virginia Ave. NW (at N. Highland Ave.), 872-0904. Mon.–Thurs. 11 a.m.–10 p.m.; Fri. 11 a.m.–midnight; Sat. 8 a.m.–midnight; Sun. 8 a.m.–10 p.m. $$$

Murphy's provides a sophisticated arena for relaxing into contemporary American comfort food. Most patrons are devoted regulars enjoying a recent makeover of the menu and remodeling of the front dining porch and bar. The newly arrived chef, from Gramercy Tavern in New York City, balances fish and meat entrées with carefully attended vegetable accompaniments, purees, and piquant sauces. Half a dozen savory appetizers can be enjoyed at the bar as well as in the dining room, where French doors open up to a side street. Dinners and weekend brunches are extremely popular, and reservations are not accepted.

Noche 1000 Vir- ginia Ave. (at N. Highland Ave.), 815-9155. Mon.–Thurs. 5:30–10:30 p.m.; Fri. 5–11 p.m.; Sat. 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m., 4–11 p.m.; Sun. 11:30 a.m.–4 p.m., 4–10 p.m. $$$

Got a hankering for Southwest cuisine in Dixie? Noche fills the bill with outstanding items including Steamed Mussels in Lobster Chili Broth with Hominy Bits, Lump Crab Cakes with Chipotle Mashed Potatoes, and Grilled Shrimp with Corn Masa and Garlic Cream. People arrive in advance of reservations to soak up the friendly energy at the crowded bar. Some locals never leave their barstool as they segue from drinks to dining while watching the action in the nearby kitchen. Dinner reservations recommended.

Paolo's Gelato Italiano 1025 Virginia Ave., 607-0055. Mon.–Thurs. 4–10 p.m.; Fri. 4–11 p.m.; Sat. noon–midnight; Sun. noon–10 p.m. $

The neighborhood can't get enough of this crazy Venetian's gelato confabulations. Paolo, a smart-mouthed former magician, sustains up to 60 ice cream and sorbet options in his small shop. Think "transcendent," "ethereal," intense"; and if you're really hungry, think Specialty Crepes. Virginia-Highland expresses its best energy and good will at this unique ice cream shop.

Rue de Paris 640 N. Highland Ave., 881-8222. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–10:30 p.m.; Sat.–Sun. 10:30 a.m.–11:30 p.m. $$$

It's all here…simple, rustic French cuisine served up by a charming mother/daughter team. Rue de Paris is less than a year old, but already attracts a diverse group of fans, from Emory University students to French émigrés. First-time diners are delighted by the good, inexpensive food and the energy of the space. It's part funky, part sophisticated, all-around great. For an unforgettable experience, arrive at 7:30 Sunday night for a $25 prix fixe meal that begins with wine and appetizer mixer, and moves to communal tables when the platters of food start arriving. The entertainment for Sunday evenings is a classy husband and wife cabaret act that for years performed at the Moulin Rouge. Reservations accepted.

Sotto Sotto 313 N. Highland Ave., 523-6678. Mon.–Thurs. 5:30–11 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30p.m.–midnight. $$$

This fancy sister to Fritti features rustic Italian dishes as good as any in Atlanta. There's a packed little bar, and an always crowded dining room. Antipasti are varied and flavorful. Pasta comes in classic combinations with seafood, cured meats, mushrooms, and cheeses. The Veal and Pork Ravioli and Spaghetti with Shellfish are standouts. When this popular restaurant fills with customers, the noise level is intense. Reservations recommended.

Taco Mac 1006 N. Highland Ave. (at Virginia Ave.), 873-6529. Mon.–Thurs. 11 a.m.–2 a.m.; Fri.–Sat. 11 a.m.–3 a.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.–midnight. $–$$

For 23 years now, a mostly young crowd gravitates to the front porch of Taco Mac each summer. Framed by a lapboard façade seemingly straight out of a West Texas ghosttown, customers perch on tall stools and contentedly munch on Buffalo chicken wings (the first in Atlanta, and still among the best). If wings don't cut it for you, find solace in an assortment of basic burgers, sandwiches, salads, and quesadillas. Frosty beer on tap (24 labels) is supplemented by a cast of 140 bottled beers from around the world. If you are looking for an excuse to prop your elbows on the table, this just might be your destination.

From Five Points, catch the eastbound train and exit a few stops later in Decatur, "Hometown to the World" as this vibrant next-door neighbor likes to call itself. There are many specialty shops and eating choices open late-all within easy walking distance of the MARTA station. A good map with more information can be found at www.decatur-ga.com/main.business.restaurants.html.

Café Alsace 121 E. Ponce De Leon Ave., 373-5622. Tues.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Tues.–Sat. 6–10 p.m.; Sun. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. $$–$$$

Once you walk through the doors of this cozy bistro, it's like you've left the state of Georgia. From the intimate décor to the understated French cuisine, Alsace is gracefully simple and authentic. Be sure to start with the goat cheese toast with basil and sun-dried tomatoes; the Spaetzle au Saumon or the Quenelle de Poisson won't disappoint.

Café Lily 308 W. Ponce De Leon, 371-9119. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m–2:30 p.m.; Mon.–Thurs. 5:30–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30–11 p.m.; Sun. 10 a.m.–10 p.m. $$–$$$

Decaturites love this casual upscale Mediterranean restaurant featuring Moroccan jerk steak, Portuguese ribeye, and light seafood. It's a good place to celebrate a special birthday. Full bar available.

Crescent Moon 174 W. Ponce De Leon Ave., 377-5623. Sun.–Mon. 7:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; Tues.–Thurs. 7:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 7:30 a.m.–10:30 p.m. $–$$

Whether it is time for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, the Crescent Moon's proximity to the Square packs in the crowds, especially on weekend mornings. Everyone is lining up for creative American food at its friendliest—and noisiest. Businesspeople grab biscuit sandwiches to go, while those with a bit more time might sit for wraps, burgers, or breakfast any time of the day. The acoustics might not be conducive to intimacy, but this restaurant is like a cozy neighborhood diner in the middle of a downtown.

Noodle 205 E. Ponce De Leon Ave., 378-8622. Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–3 p.m., 4:30–10 p.m.; Sat.–Sun. noon–10 p.m. $

One of Atlanta's first noodle houses—outside of the authentic ones on Buford Highway. The ambiance is fun industrial meets tearoom. While diners have been known to make a meal out of the Vegetable Shui Mai dumplings alone, don't stop there. Lenny's Egg Noodle Bowl is particularly popular as are new menu items such as the Kung Pao Eggplant available with chicken, beef, shrimp, or tofu.

Siam 123 Sycamore St., 371-4333. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Sat. 5–10:15 p.m.; Sun. 5–9:30 p.m. $$–$$$

The food and atmosphere are elegant Thai with a Vietnamese flavor. Part of the fun of Siam is the presentation, from the perfectly mannered wait staff to the dishes so beautifully served that you hesitate to disturb your plate. Try the basil mussels and any of the coconut curries; equally recommended are any of the seafood offerings, particularly the steamed snapper. Reservations recommended for larger parties.

Watershed 406 W. Ponce De Leon Ave., 378-4900. Mon.– Sat. 11 a.m.–10 p.m.; Sun. 10 a.m.–3 p.m. $$–$$$

Indigo Girl Emily Saliers, whose mom is a librarian, partnered with chef Scott Peacock and others to start this Nouveau Southern café. Peacock has long worked with Edna Lewis, southern cuisine's "grande dame," but he puts an original spin on fried chicken and other southern favorites. This restaurant also prepares some of the best cakes in the city. If she's not touring, you may even find Emily bussing tables. Watershed is located a few blocks from the Square but still within walking distance of the MARTA station if you're wearing comfortable shoes.